Like the title says I’m leaking oil out of the back of the manifold where it sits on the block galley wall. I believe this means in need to remove the intake mani and reseal. I could try adding more permatex but that might be a waste of time. Any other suggestions or recommendations? *I did have the incorrect oil pump spring so I was running 65lbs at idle. I haven’t driven the car yet, just let it idle for 10 mins. I think unlikely that the high pressure caused it to leak? Here’s a picture
You will never stop that oil leak trying to "add" anything to the leaking area as it will not stick and you cannot clean off the oil. (and you really do not want to get "loose" silicone into the engine/oil system!) It's a "splash leak", no pressure. When you pull and clean the intake, cut the front and rear rubber strips into small pieces and chew on them, while you apply Permatex "Right Stuff" to the front and rear china walls and set the intake on square and level (if you have two buddies, one to help lower and one to spot you should be able to get it on without messing up the bead. The rubber seals almost always act like nanners on a peanut better sammich and squish out. Wet sealant on them make them squish more faster.
"cut the front and rear rubber strips into small pieces an chew on them" hahahha! Just wondering, are they that bad? I recently chaged my intake gasket as well, and ditched the rubber for Permatex. I still had a hard time to seal the front and the back of the intake, but most probably because that was the first time I was doing it all by myself.
Tha rubber end seals aren’t “that” bad. The reason most of us use or recommend RTV instead of the seals is when these engines were original way back when the seals worked pretty decent. But today, these engines have been machined, block decks cut, intake side of heads cut, heads milled for more compression etc. that the gap gets smaller and the rubber seals don’t work anymore, so by default, we use sealer (RTV or equivalent) and don’t have to worry about seepage. Like trunk monkey said, it’s NOT a pressure leak, oil gets splashed, some of it it vapor, and it weeps out. Excessive oil pressure will not cause a leak anyway
After you clean it all up, if you set the intake on it dry, with only the gaskets, you can measure how tall you need to make the bead of Right Stuff (or equivalent) on the China walls. That's what I did.
I use ultra black RTV. The right stuff is awesome, but it makes parts disassembly difficult at best. The most important thing is to make sure you get the RTV in each corner where the head overhangs the block a bit. Squirt it in there first, then run your bead. I think too much is better than too little. It's kind of self adjusting once you put the intake on. I usually torque it down 30%, let the RTV set up, then torque it down to final specs. A bit more complicated when you are using a splash shield, but the Ultra black I used provided a leak free seal.
Excess blow-by, or a failed/failing PCV system makes oil leaks worse. Be sure your PCV system--including the fresh-air intake--is preventing pressure build-up in the crankcase.
Thanks for all the input guys. The PCV valve was venting into the atmosphere. I haven't gotten the right hose to route it to the back of the carb yet.
Back of the carb??? That's not the vent/fresh air inlet, that's the suction hose. That's CRUCIAL. What do you have for a fresh air inlet?
It was my understanding that is the correct way to do it with my Holley Carb. Fresh air from a breather on the valve cover. Edit: Maybe I misunderstood and you're saying that it's crucial to have that hooked up? I took it as you were saying that is the incorrect way to do it.
Some Holley carbs have a 3/8 nipple on the rear that gets used for the PCV suction. It is crucial to have that suction hose connected to the PCV valve. Given a choice, I'd rather have the PCV fumes entering the FRONT of the carb, so they mix nicely with the incoming fuel/air stream from the primary venturis and get distributed as evenly as possible to all cylinders. But sometimes there's no choice without fabrication.
My AED 1000 had a nipple for the PCV at the back. I actually did not ever use it because the TA SP1 has a threaded boss on the back wall of the plenum, and I used a fitting to run a hose directly to the PCV. In this picture, you can see the capped nipple on the AED carburetor, and the threaded boss on the plenum back wall of the SP1 If your Holley carburetor does not have a 3/8 nipple in the base plate, you can drill and tap a spacer for one. Alternately, if you are using an older SP1 without the threaded boss, you can drill and tap the intake as TA did on the later SP1 intakes.
I exclusively use "The Right Stuff" for the front and rear of the intake. I has a better body strength than RTV so it will hold it's form better during assembly. It is also rated to put into service immediately, no need to wait overnight for it to dry sufficiently. As an adhesive/sealant, it's performance is superior to any other chemical sealing substance I have used for this type of sealing application. To remove the intake, simply cut the sealant with a razor blade in an X-Acto knife. Also, if your using composition gaskets, are you running a splash pan under the intake? JW
I do have a 3/8 nipple on the carb so that's an easy fix. I'll grab "The Right Stuff" when I got to work on it on Thursday. I am running the Felpro composite gaskets but no splash pan. I assume that means I should be? These are the gastkets. Any recommendations on different ones? https://www.jegs.com/i/Fel+Pro/375/...zG6du1D334LEXeIvAcwyMJ_f4pMEVGsxoCurgQAvD_BwE
Without a splash shield, the PCV valve will suck oil out of the valley, into the carburetor, and it will burn in the cylinders. Your valves will look like this,
You have 2 options. One is to use an old stock bathtub metal gasket and modify it to act as a splash shield. Instructions for doing that are in the TA reference "Intake Installation" http://taperformance.com/PDF/Intake_Instructions.pdf The second option is to use the AM&P splash shield built for that purpose. Intake Manifold Oil Splash shield, 1st picture. http://automachperf.com/Buickperformanceparts.html To order, e mail Mike Phillips directly. Tell him what engine and what intake you are using. ampmike@aol.com http://automachperf.com/Buickperformanceparts.html
