Getting ready to instal my rebuilt 400 into the ragtop and I have the following simplistic questions. First- background. 69 400 stock rebuild with the exception of a TA113A cam. The cam HAS NOT been degreed. Also, the distributor is not installed- so I can prime the engine with an old KB priming rod. 1. As far as priming- just place that rod into the distributor bore, get it on the oil pump and spin? 2. When I instal the distributor, I will have to get #1 to TDC. With the heads bolted on, use a compression gauge? This is my first attempt at rebuilding an engine and I don't want to screw it up... Still have to get the pilot shaft bearing ordered/installed, flywheel, clutch, etc...:idea2: Thanks in advance!
I'm sure others will chime in with ways to do this, but here is what I would do with what I have. Yes, you could use your priming tool and put the rod in to the oil pump and spin. Watch your oil pressure and leaks. In my Buick experience, I was spinning as fast as my battery powered drill would spin, then when it primed, that drill would barely spin it. Remember, you are priming, so once it's primed, it's ready to start and run. Don't continue priming or you will wash out all of your pre lube. Balancer at 0 on the timing mark would be TDC, but you need to make sure it is on the intake stroke. Easiest way for me is to watch the intake rocker arm and when it is coming up and you hit TDC, that is where you want to set your distributor with the #1 wire just before the rotor. Good luck and have fun.
Yes, just spin the oil pump drive until you feel the drill slow up. You just want to pressurize the oil galleys, not wash the assembly lube off where it needs to be. As far as TDC, when you install the cam and timing gears, and chain, and line up the dots, it should already be at TDC firing #1. What you want to avoid is turning the engine too much and wiping off that lube. Maybe back the engine up a bit and just confirm that you are getting some compression as you move it forward.
Watching the intake valve will work for intial startup, but everybody should have the wife roll the motor over while you have your finger over the sparkplug hole. A 11 to 1 motor will almost scare you. One of the coolest ways to find TDC on comp stroke. All gearheads should try it :laugh:
Pull the front cover off and degree the cam. Depending on how you "line up the dots" it could be on TDC firing #6 (#1 on exhaust stroke.)
If there is only one dot on the cam gear and the one dot on the crank gear, and the cam gear turns once for every two times the crank gear turns, how are there two ways to line up the dots? Without the timing chain connected, the engine doesn't know if it is at TDC compression or exhaust, it's just TDC. Once you line up the dots, it should be ready to fire #1. Wouldn't firing #6 and exhausting #1 have the crank gear dot straight up, and the cam gear dot at the top of the gear?(180* from where it was lined up) Correct me if I am wrong.
If Buick is like Chevrolet or Pontiac or Olds, if you "line up" the dots so they're right next to each other--Crank gear dot at 12:00 and cam gear dot at 6:00--you've set the cam for firing on #6 while #1 is on overlap. This is the common way to do it, and it accounts for the large number of "my engine won't start, it backfires through the carb" postings. The distributor is dropped in 180 degrees off; and is firing on overlap instead of near the top of compression. If you put the gears on with the dots close together, roll the crank a full turn and THEN drop the distributor in, set to fire #1. If you "line up" the dots so the crank gear dot is at 12:00 and the cam gear dot is at 12:00--you've set the cam for firing on #1; and #6 is on overlap. But who does cam gear alignment this way? I don't.
I've always set them up dot to dot. Been awhile, but I always thought I dropped in the distributor to fire #1.
I bet you roll the crank at least once before stabbing the distributor. I'd also bet that you verify TDC-Compression beforehand, too.
Maybe, but what prompted my response was when you said "depending on how you line up the dots". There is only one way I do it. Cam gear dot at 6 O'clock, Crank gear dot at 12. Dot to dot.
I just installed all new ignition and i originally put the timing mark on 0 and had the rotor pointed to number one. Motor didn't fire so i took out the #1 spark plug and put some tape in the hole and cranked the engine till it popped out and the took the cap off and sure enough it was 180 out so i just adjusted the wires to match the rotor. Started right up after that.
Me, too. I'm not arguing with you. Nevertheless, it's still possible to align them when both are at 12:00; and that would be the reason it "depends on how you line up the dots". I'd have changed the position of the mainshaft (rotor) to match the correct (factory-style) wire positions. There's no functional difference; but that way it looks right, and OEM-length plug wires are sure to fit.
On a somewhat related note, when I primed the engine I dropped my distributor back in and it must have been out of phase because I got popping thru the carb. So I had my sone bump the starter till it blew my finger out of number 1 plug hole, lifted the cao to see where the contact was located and I rearranged the wires on the dist. cap according to firing order beginning just after that point where the contact was. This got me close enough to start and run it so I can re-set timing. Does this sound logical?
