Is this engine usable for stockish rebuild

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by srobinr, Jan 12, 2023.

  1. srobinr

    srobinr Well-Known Member

    This is probably a dumb question as I would say the answer is no… but there is a tiny hole in one of the lifter bores… I just noticed it as I was cleaning after picking it up from the shop. My machine shop I guess didn’t catch it during the block prep. That hole was before there as I can see it in pics before dropping it off at the shop.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. srobinr

    srobinr Well-Known Member

    Also— is this hole suppose to be here ? This would be for a 350 block. Just asking cause the 455 doesn’t have it as I’m now doing a deep inspection on my 350 after finding that hole in the 455.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    The hole in the front of the block is open, clean it up with a rat tail file or de-burr.

    If that engine ran with the casting flaw (sand hole) it is likely fine, but if you are concerned, drill it, tap it, clean the inside of the bore, to make sure there is no burrs and degrease and use red loctite and a small internal wrenching plug. Be sure it does not enter the inside of the bore.
     
  4. srobinr

    srobinr Well-Known Member

    I appreciate the quick response thank you very much. I didn’t see the engine run as I bought it off Craigslist a year ago as a core. And if I used a plug on it does the material matter ? I see some aluminum or steel. I’d rather just leave it be and send it
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2023
  5. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    I would just put some JB Weld on the lifter hole and run it....but that's just me....
     
  6. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    I'd use general carbon steel fastener. Same as installing lifter girdle or splash shield. It is not much more effort than JB Weld for that one job.

    JB Weld would also be fine, but their are so many that kick back on the thought of such "rednecky injuneering", I was avoiding that. :D
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  7. srobinr

    srobinr Well-Known Member

    Gotchya. Yah I’ll probably just go the jbweld route. Thanks
     
  8. Super Bald Menace

    Super Bald Menace Frame off oil changes

    If I ran into that I'd braze it with some silver solder.
     
    sean Buick 76 likes this.
  9. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I was thinking some form of braze too.....just make sure the lifter if freely moving afterwards
     
    Super Bald Menace likes this.
  10. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Do not do any sort of braising or welding, period!

    I am pretty picky on fixing cracks and holes up, but with this simple one just spray it out good with brake clean while scrubbing it good with a cheap 4 buck brass bristle brush, and then JB weld it at the proper room temp and then never think about it again.

    When done make sure a new lifter placed in that Bore rotates just as freely as any of the other bores.

    If it does not then take a brake cylinder hone to it or with a carful usage of a stone in aDremal tool chamfer that hole on the inside of the Bore.
     
  11. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Yes, JB Weld.
    Don’t make it a more complex repair than need be.
    In actuality the body of the lifter will seal the hole, but JB Weld on the OUTSIDE of the bore will prevent oil from wizzing out.
    Years ago on a ‘78 350 block it had casting porosity in the oil gallery going down to the rear main, I could see oil wizzing out running the pump with the drill. I sprayed it down with brake clean then used JB Weld on a paint stick going thru the opening in the cam tunnel ( cam was out, engine was in car) worked great!
    Funny thing was I had been driving the car, even drove it to the GS Nationals, great oil pressure, 20 psi hot idle on 10/30 oil.
     
  12. srobinr

    srobinr Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the replays everybody. Picked up some JBweld and once the weather gets warmed up next week ill clean it and patch up real good.
     
  13. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Don't go crazy on it......a little dab will do ya.....
     
  14. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    You can wrap wax paper or tape on a lifter and push it into the bore to take up the space and keep from having a lot of JBWeld on the inside of the bore. It is pretty hard to work once cured and you don't want to take any metal out of that bore trying to hone/sand the repair.

    Make sure it is the "original/slow cure" stuff. It is a much stronger/resilient epoxy than the "quick".

    upload_2023-1-13_11-55-55.png
     
    srobinr likes this.
  15. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I dont think if you put tape or that on a lifter it will fit. There is only about .0015-.0020 clearance between
     
    srobinr and TrunkMonkey like this.
  16. srobinr

    srobinr Well-Known Member

    I will probably use painters tape on the inside and then just a dab of JB.
     
  17. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    That will work fine;)
     

Share This Page