Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by 72 skylark custom, Jun 22, 2019.
Slick Sand, I use that a lot. Good stuff and easy to work with.
How easy is it to spray?
SPI is great stuff, and the support is awesome.
The guy i talked to from SPI was a very nice guy and answered any questions i had, and said i could call anytime if i had anyother questions. Very nice company and people
You can call the fella on his cell,..his name escapes me rite now but yes excellent customer support.
Spraying Slick Sand:
It mixes like 20:1 there about I cant remember "exactly" I pretty much eyeball everything I mix and half the time I mix stuff different from the manufacturer suggest anyway ha,..but any way follow the directions and you'll be fine with the mixing ratio,..but when spraying
1. First coat looks kinda translucent dont panic that's normal,.
2.apply each coat with purpose 1.6 or larger tip will be best 1.4 is the absolute minimum but you'll have to crank the psi up and probably clean the tip occasionally while spraying.
3. Gun distance I stay around 8in or so and turn the pattern in to about 8in fan.
4. Do not put in direct sunlight till the next day
5. If you want/need to cut it a little use acetone
6. Dab your pinholes on the 1st and second coat
7. No more than 5cts,...that should more than take care of any minor surface correction needed
I've got 4 cases of SPI universal clear and 4 cases of epoxy in storage room at school I just ordered b4 we got out for summer,..and maybe a couple kits of the Euro Hi solids for "Government work" ha
[QUOTE="hugger, post: 2950417, member: 42129"...."Slick Sand" made by evercoat[/QUOTE]
aka 'sprayable bondo' !
Good stuff.... it's much thicker than your typical primer-surfacer. It really is closer to bondo than it is to paint.
It can be tough to measure very small quantities of the hardeners or other additives. I often use a small digital scale when I mix up a touch-up guns worth of paint. In extreme cases, I'll use a small lab beaker or even a syringe.
I saw a video of someone spraying slick sand and they said they were using i believe a 3mm tip on their gun! Thats a lot bigger than the 1.4 thats on my gun now. Is that true for slick sand? i know its a great deal thicker as far as a primer goes but if i can get away with a 1.6 or slightly bigger i would be good lol
Yea, 1.6 to 2.0 is fine,..not sure what that fella doing ha
I had no clue either ha i have to post some pics later of the door because im not sure how to tackle some areas of the door. How come the edges of the door always seem to be higher than the rest of the panel?
Somewhat common due to the construction,..but If i encounter such i use the metal file to work it down a touch,..dont go beating on it alot of it will work it's way out as the material builds. A pick hammer will be of some use as well but remember the door structure is directly behind the skin so there isn't much of a place for the skin to go.
Use a straight edge on the bottom of the door,..they are usually real wonky
Ive noticed that about the bottom of the door lol, ill post pictures tomorrow when im out there to show a little bit of what im working with, rather than try and explain it wrong lol
Sorry im a day late with posting these guys, had to finish up some final things before i start an apprenticeship very soon. But these are the edges i was talking about, so like hugger said i could just barely hit it with a metal file just a hair, or leave it go and let it work out as the primer and slick sand build? Also the close up picture of the bottom corner of the door feels fairly low compared to the rest of the bottom part of the door how would i tackle that?