The org oem starter went out on my 350, i had a mini starter laying around that i installed. it's not cranking every time.. i remember the bolts being specific to that starter. Any help on what they look like or where to get new one would be great. Cheers!
Did you put a late small block chevy starter on it like an LT1 starter? They are a great option. I know you already have one but I will mention the 93' to 97' Camaro or Buick roadmaster 5.7 LT1 starter is the common swap. These are the bolts you need. The GM delco part number is at the top of the picture. Greg
As said, they take "special" bolts. What's special is that they have SAE threads, but an oversized, Metric shank. The knurled area is "stepped" so that it's tight in the metric hole of the starter, but still fits into the SAE hole (and threads) in the block. ARP makes a similar bolt set, but the shank is stepped instead of the knurl. I don't like 'em as much as the GM bolts. If the starter is not cranking "every time", and assuming that the big, thick, main power and ground cables are clean and tight at both ends, I'd be looking at the power supply to the "S" terminal. If you have power there, but the starter doesn't run, you've got starter/solenoid problems. If you have no power to the S terminal when you turn the key to "Crank", you have vehicle wire harness problems. It's REALLY COMMON for the final 6--8--12 inches of the S-terminal wire to be corroded to death inside the insulation. You'd have to cut the wire back to good, clean copper, then crimp/solder in a replacement section. (Hopefully, better sealed against road-splash than the original.) This is the wire I cut out of my '97 K2500. What appears to be the "good" end is still too corroded to solder-to. I ended up replacing about three feet of wire to get to clean copper, in a place I had access for tools to splice the new wire into the original.
