Being things are the way they are now, I figured I'd tinker with modifying my oil pan. I bought a 350 pan Mart had, I've been mocking up different configurations with cardboard on the bench using Mart's pan, then taking my mock up, taped together and fitting it to my pan on my GS to check for clearance and to make sure it doesn't hang below the crossmember. Well, according to my cardboard calculations just a 1/2"lower than the stock Buick pan puts it even with the crossmember.... I don't like that, plus a 1/2" aint diddly The only avenue Im thinking I could go down is to remove and fill in the cut out at the back of the pan that's for cars with single exhaust, and extend the bottom of the sump forward a couple inches. It wouldn't be a "deep sump" pan, just an "extra capacity" pan Im beginning to wonder if this idea is even worth it before I go cutting metal Heres a pic of what I'd modify
Check with Steve Reynolds and see if he has any 350 deep pan kits for sale. He's already measured & perfected them. Maybe even TA might have something.... As long as your not below the headers, you'll be ok. Pretend you're in a Corvette and have no ground clearance.
Before you modify anything watch this. You may want to build a whole new pan. https://www.motortrendondemand.com/detail/pantastic-news/0_09pcka0e/
Excellent video! Its the first time I've seen oil pressure stability addressed, usually its power. Hmmmmm, now my next question, do most deeper sump oil pans hang below the front crossmember in street cars? The mention of longer stroke engines aggravate the aeration situation was interesting. I noticed when they put the "rail" section on that BBC for the 1100.00 pan, it looked like a deep skirt block, effectively dropping the pan away from the crank, OR extending the rails of the block and "effectively" putting the crank into the block. SOOOOOO, kinda sorta the 350 Buick is already halfway there with the crank being "in" the block verses "in" the pan, so MAYBE a bit wider on the sump, and deeper. Basically keep excess, non essential oil away from the crank to reduce windage, and worse, aeriation of the oil.
You would not want to run the pan lower than the cross member on the street. A road hazard or anything hits the pan it could loose all the oil, you will want to protect the pan with the cross member. The more expensive pan also pulled the pan wall away from the crank allowing oil to disperse and not build up. Also the louvers helped get oil away from the crank, a crank scraper would help as well.
Started cutting steel today, only got as far as mocking up the bottom, 16 ga. steel isn't easy to bend by hand
I think I would cut the corners off then you would just be building straights. Cut the hump off then cut it in half and stretch it and weld back together.
I had thought about going straight across, then welding the sides at an angle to join the sides of the pan. I reasoned that if I bend it instead, that would eliminate two welded seams, but I figured it would have bent more sharply instead of a gradual bend, LOL, didn't realize 16 ga. was this thick and resistant to "folding, and shaping"
Maybe buy an inexpensive aftermarket pan with desired sump dimensions and graft it onto your pan. If it’s a popular brand you may find a cheap used one. Just my .02
Quit smoking those damn cigarettes The one that TA had made for me it takes 6 qts before the oil gets to the 1 qt low mark. You can actually put 7 qts in but I use 6. I can't believe these are not available since I got mine in 1993.
I can talk about the pan issue as I run a Postons pan. Yes it does not take much to have a deep pan be below the crossmember. That Poston pan is probably deeper than any sheet metal pan. If you have a lowered car (I do) you will be able to bang the deep pans. All I did was take a 2 inch wide 1/4 thick piece of flat stock and make a mini skid plate on the bottom of the crossmember.
I entertained that idea awhile back, but my butthole would pucker buying a nice PROFFESIONALY made pan and cut it up
Those aren't mine, Im holding 'em for a friend Before I cut the sump off of the pan, I wanna see where 4, 4.5 and then 5 Qts. sit, and compare it to my modified pan. TA asked awhile back if there was any interest in a deep pan for 350 guys, but its not on their priority list.
Im assuming your running a 455 with Postons cast aluminum girdled deep pan? I saw a pic of Postons pan on a 455 in a thread yesterday, DAMN that thing hangs a good 2" below the crossmember