Hello I have recently purchased a 1964 Skylark Covetable. Painted parts are ok; its the bottom side that isn't. I have done some searches and found sources for parts (still open for suggestions); I have two problem areas I need advice on. 1st the pan is rusted all the way through on both sides 4" by from side rail to half way up the hump both sides under the seat where the brace is brace is also gone have similar problem but not quite as bad at the front brace. The other area of major concern is the trunk at the body mounts both sides. My question is I have removed the interior, the gas tank etc. I am ready to start cutting out the bad stuff. What precautionary bracing do I need to do prior to cutting, The body is sitting low in rear due to the rear body mounts gone, I do not know if I can cut out these areas and start cutting patches or do I need to shim that body where the body mount was to get everything sitting right or if I can just start cutting and repairing....in other words am I making this too difficult or do I need to proceed with extreme caution. What resources are available for this type of work? What ever help is out there would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
64 lark First, we all need to know your name. Works better that way. Converts have a boxed frame. so it is stiffer than a normal car. This compensates for not having a top to stiffen up the car. Postens in Atmore ala. has a trunk floor replacement kit that has the under flloor braces with it. You might find a replacement patch section at a junk yd. some where. If not , just fab a patch panel. i have had a 64 lark cpe and a 65 lark GS cpe. basicly the same body on all. There is about 400 lb of undercoating and sound deadner in those bodys that you will need to remove as it will catch fire if you try to weld with it there. [ sprayed on and laid in sheets under the seats and trunk mats] making a car lighter is one of the best kept speed secrets of all time. each 100 lb wt reduction will get a 10th et. That body is one of the best to build up that Buick ever made.
convertable Hi Doc my name is Mike Yes I have stripped out the interior the sound deadening stuff the gas tank etc, basically the brace that supports the front seat rear is gone, the front seat front support is better but has let loose of the rockers, this is the one that has the body mount. I think I need to replace from just behind the front seat to the seam between the firewall/floor pan from frame rail to frame rail. The frame seems questionable took a lot of rust out of the inside and have a hole right in front near the double body mounts where the starts to turn into the engine cradle, behind the front wheel. The trunk is as you suspect the body mounts/braces are pretty much gone completely. Found this site on line: http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/GS6467.htm they seem fairly reasonable on price anyone you know have any experience with them. Would like to know if these are galv panels or if they are painted, preserved ... also wondering what gauge these are and if any one knows what original gauge was. Any tips for straighten up the frame w/o body off?? Lotta questions huh? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!
Rust repair Mike, Pard evidently you are working with a car that has been in the North where they salt the roads. Any metal can be repaired. but just how much is there to do???????? Yes the frame can be repaired and the little sub frames and the sheet metal. I take it that you are not doing anything except trying to come up with a daily driver. Are you able to weld and fabricate?????If so you can save your self a ton of money. What kind of tools do you have and what is your skill level. The answers to the questions that I have asked will determine how well the car will turn out. Do you have a good old fashioned case of the bull headed stubborns??? You have to have if you are going to rebuild the car. Now, all that said, strip and clean and evaluate carefully the work to be done. Use the old as patterns for the new. Dont be quick to throw away the old stuff you take off. When you fab a new part make it the same thickness as the old part. Welds easier that way. As for the frame, while it is bare, clean and cut out the rot and weld in new patches and then grind smooth and repaint. Most frames are about 3/16 thick. not that heavy. Do good welding. Your life will depend on it. Scrounge for parts any where and every where. Chevells, gto s , cutlasses, all have some common parts. Use them. Common motor oil is the best rust stopper that I have found. We all have been working under a car and have discovered that where the metal is covered with oil and dirt the metal has not rusted. think about it. good luck with it.
Thanks! Ya thank you Doc, You are correct just want a safe nice looking driver. I do not have much room or many of the niceties in tools. I'm getting some help from a friend who has a lot of the great stuff like plasma cutter, etc. I want to get as much done prior to taking it over to him so as not to take up to much of his time and space. I'm just wanting to get as many hints from as much experience as possible before doing something wrong. One of my major issues is access to areas such as the frame and rockers, I am not planning on removing the body unless absolutely necessary. That may come some years down the road. As far as the sheet metal goes, got some experience on that front, I'm an engineer in a GM sheet metal plant, unfortunately no samples, so I think I will go with those mail order replacement panels unless someone has a better idea or know that those arent going to be worth the cost etc. I went to a meeting of our local chapter of the Buick club last night and they seemed to think I was heading down the right path, though they did give me a heads up that the frame behind the passenger compartment was also a problem area for these cars. I have to do some time investigating that! Thank You so much any other thoughts or just some encouragement, please let me know. Mike (in the north where the snow will blow tonight)
64 lark Mike, old buddy, back when I was a mechanic, I had times that I wanted to get my hands on a automotive engineer!!!!!!!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: There is just one way to learn the skills neccessary to do what you want to do. Get in there and get a double hand full of iron and start doing it. And do like you are doing, rely on the guys that have been there and done that, and have the scarred knuckles to prove it. If I can help just let me know. I enjoy doing this type of thing. :Brow: I had a 64 lark that started out bone stock with the 300, then I built the "optional" 300 [4bbl. with 11:1 comp. ect.] then built it into a 65 GS clone and finally put a full race 430 bbb into it. At this time I am building a 65 GS car. [ 401 nail head punched to 410, super cat cam, holley 1050 cfm 3bbl carb, cold air pkg, switch pitch 400, 3.23 posi. body lightened up as much as possible except for air conditioning.] stay in touch.
Not exactly an Automotive Engineer Not exactly an Automotive Engineer, just a manufacturing engineer in a sheet metal plant....so you cant blame me. I just work with the automation feeding the presses. I just came up from the garage and each time I climb under the car I become both encouraged and disheartened. Boy these winters are definitely hard on that sheet metal!!! Not liking what I am seeing on the frame left side front at the double body mount and a little behind that area. I'm hoping I can get some 10gage in there and tighten that area up. Got any ideas on getting the U joints apart. Took off the caps (one broke) and the U joints wont budge. Now you gotta remember Im doing it all on a creeper, what a pain. I will take some photos one of these days and send them along. Thank you for the encouragement and help! Mike
repair Mike, With the u-joints get plenty of pb blaster penetrating oil, some large sockets, a 2 lb hammer and a large vice. Soak the u-joints in the pb and then use the other stuff in combination to get the joints apart and the vice to squeeze them toghther. Go by the shop manual, it will have illustrations and directions. If you dont have one dont do another thing untill you get one. It will save you a ton to moneyyyyyyy. When you use the hammer to drive the old ends out strike the yolk only dont hit the shaft or you will bend it. There are 2 types of u-joint inside lock and out side lock. Some cars have both. The first time you do this operation, it is really intemidating but once done it is really not difficult. First, TAKE A PUNCH AND MARK ALL THE YOLKS IN ONE PLANE SO THEY CAN BE PUT BACK IN THE PROPER FASE. When you put the new joints in make sure the needles stay in their place by swiping in some wheel bearing grease. The light grease that comes with the new joints is vaseline and only keeps them from rusting. Squeeze the joints together with the vise untill you can get the locks back in. Then tap the joints back against the locks to loosen the joint to the proper tension and secure the lock. The joint should flex smoothly and easily at this point. If not find out why. dont continue on untill it does. When all the joints are in and the yolks matched up in proper faze then clean and paint the entire shaft satin black and it will be just like a new one.
Photos Thank You! Topless64-455 Those are great photos do you have any more? That shown rear brace on mine is gone! I have a source listed above in previous post, the front brace is going to have to be replaced it is bad on both sides where attaches to the frame and the body mounts are for the most part gone, this is going to be a problem for me getting them in the correct place correct spacing... Is the car in the photo a veritable? It looks like a channel frame in the photos, though it's hard to see. Did you have much damage to the cowl or the rocker inners? If you can I would like to see as many photos as you have, if you need an e-mail can send no problem! Hope your project is going well! Thank You! Mike
Frame now with 3.73 12 bolt (66 Chevelle) big block TA frame pads and disc brakes to slow me down after I get the Tri Shield monster in there!
