My 1967 Buick Skylark

I think it's finally time to bite the bullit and rebuild the carb.

On my way out of the house today, car started fine after sitting for a few days. then started to sound like an old pump engine, thump.......thump.......thump....like it was getting enough gas to fire one sequence then stop, then enough to fire another one. (if that makes any sense.)
Shut the engine down then would turn over but not fire up.

When I popped the hood top of the manifold had a puddles of gas. Had to push it back home and run to work so I haven't had much time to diagnose it.
Anything else I might want to check?

 

Had some to time to work on the skylark, attempted to pull the 2GC carb off to rebuild it. Back two bolts came off no problem, front two broke off in the manifold (as Brian had predicted a year ago). Heated them up a bit with a torch and let them cool didn't help any, attempted to drill them out and I think I hit a water jacket.ou:

Figured that was the sign it was time to do the 4bbl swap anyways. So on to the next adventure!

---------- Post added at 02:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

I hit my 4bbl manifold with a wirebrush on a drill bit to clean it up a bit but it's still pretty crusty on the insides of the passages, I have a freind who can sandblast it at no cost, but is that the best option? or is there something else I can look into?

 

A sandblast works great just be sure all sand is flushed out before the install!!

 

but of course! thanks!

 

Jacked the car up last night to put it on stands for the winter and do some work. Always amazes me how clean this car is for a Midwest car. This was sold in WI new and lived its entire life there till I bought it.

After a year of running with no mufflers finally going to remount the back 1/2 of the exhaust kit. I'll miss the sound, but I'm sure my wife and neighbors won't! :3gears:p

 

Are all carb bolt threads for intake manifolds the same (size, or twist, what ever the correct nomenclature is)?

I was taking the 2GC off a few months back when it was warmer and the two front broke, and now I need to drill out and re-tap the bolt holes, just want to make sure I'm using the right tap and die to clean them out.

 

From what I remember, the studs should all be the same. Can't see a reason
why they wouldn't. My 300 is wrapped up and stored away so I can't
put my eyes on it.

 

Engine is a '67 340-2V (not that I think that would matter compared to a 300.....)

 

Hi guys been a while since I've been on here. Last year due to some family difficulties and just a general lack of free time to work on it I sold my Skylark, ended up selling it to a friend of mine so I still get to work on it and drive it on occasion.

My apologies for anyone who tried to message me about parts. All the parts went with the car but I can get them if you are still interested, best option for reaching me is email, though I'll clear my inbox here out as well.

On the plus side, last inter we pulled the carb and I rebuilt it and did it right and car runs incredibly quieter and much smoother.

 

on a broke bolt you can weld a nut onto it to get it out. idk if i would on a 2bb

 

Cool car!

 

We busted the front two bolts off, they'd essentially become fused to the manifold from what I could tell as I don't think this carb had been off in a looooong time (Brian you were right!) and just ended up re-drilling and tapping it.

Boy does that 340 purr nicely now!