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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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My 1967 Buick Skylark

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by urbancowboy0307, Oct 12, 2011.

  1. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    I think it's finally time to bite the bullit and rebuild the carb.

    On my way out of the house today, car started fine after sitting for a few days. then started to sound like an old pump engine, thump.......thump.......thump....like it was getting enough gas to fire one sequence then stop, then enough to fire another one. (if that makes any sense.)
    Shut the engine down then would turn over but not fire up.

    When I popped the hood top of the manifold had a puddles of gas. Had to push it back home and run to work so I haven't had much time to diagnose it.
    Anything else I might want to check?
     
  2. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    Had some to time to work on the skylark, attempted to pull the 2GC carb off to rebuild it. Back two bolts came off no problem, front two broke off in the manifold (as Brian had predicted a year ago). Heated them up a bit with a torch and let them cool didn't help any, attempted to drill them out and I think I hit a water jacket.:Dou:

    Figured that was the sign it was time to do the 4bbl swap anyways. So on to the next adventure!

    ---------- Post added at 02:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

    I hit my 4bbl manifold with a wirebrush on a drill bit to clean it up a bit but it's still pretty crusty on the insides of the passages, I have a freind who can sandblast it at no cost, but is that the best option? or is there something else I can look into?
     
  3. Rusty Davenport

    Rusty Davenport Silver Level contributor

    A sandblast works great just be sure all sand is flushed out before the install!!
     
  4. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    but of course! thanks!
     
  5. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    Jacked the car up last night to put it on stands for the winter and do some work. Always amazes me how clean this car is for a Midwest car. This was sold in WI new and lived its entire life there till I bought it.

    After a year of running with no mufflers finally going to remount the back 1/2 of the exhaust kit. I'll miss the sound, but I'm sure my wife and neighbors won't! :3gears::pp
     
  6. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    Are all carb bolt threads for intake manifolds the same (size, or twist, what ever the correct nomenclature is)?

    I was taking the 2GC off a few months back when it was warmer and the two front broke, and now I need to drill out and re-tap the bolt holes, just want to make sure I'm using the right tap and die to clean them out.
     
  7. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    From what I remember, the studs should all be the same. Can't see a reason
    why they wouldn't. My 300 is wrapped up and stored away so I can't
    put my eyes on it.
     
  8. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    Engine is a '67 340-2V (not that I think that would matter compared to a 300.....)
     
  9. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    Hi guys been a while since I've been on here. Last year due to some family difficulties and just a general lack of free time to work on it I sold my Skylark, ended up selling it to a friend of mine so I still get to work on it and drive it on occasion.

    My apologies for anyone who tried to message me about parts. All the parts went with the car but I can get them if you are still interested, best option for reaching me is email, though I'll clear my inbox here out as well.

    On the plus side, last inter we pulled the carb and I rebuilt it and did it right and car runs incredibly quieter and much smoother.
     
  10. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly jeffreyrigged youtube channel owner

    on a broke bolt you can weld a nut onto it to get it out. idk if i would on a 2bb
     
  11. NZ GS 400

    NZ GS 400 Gold Level Contributor

    Cool car!
     
  12. urbancowboy0307

    urbancowboy0307 Silver Level contributor

    We busted the front two bolts off, they'd essentially become fused to the manifold from what I could tell as I don't think this carb had been off in a looooong time (Brian you were right!) and just ended up re-drilling and tapping it.

    Boy does that 340 purr nicely now!
     

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