Need your input /advice These are my steps I am planning on for painting , first time painting base/clear coat but did lacquer just once on a junky camaro in the alley outside 30 years ago ,didnt come out to bad .....I have a sata gun 1.5 tip for base 1.4 for clear 1) Epoxy prime 2) 2-3 coats primer fill to block sand 3) take car apart fenders,doors , hood and trunk lid 4) give all parts one layer of base coat 5) paint small parts fully base /clear hinges ,sport mirrors ,front hood trim ,headlight bezels,rear wing 6) paint fully b/cc door jambs areas..paper tape off 7) put car together carefully 8) 1-2 more coats of base as needed for that painted together layer look 9) cross fingers and 2-3 coats of clear bigger problem is what color to go with ?? ou: its been in primer black for so long I have gotten accustomed to it but they say its not easy to paint black for first timer ....dont know why, paint is paint ...no ? its not that fancy pearls/metallic stuff
No matter how you do it there's pro's/con's. Pick the paint and get the TDS for it, it will dictate how much time you have between steps. I blocked it at 180, 320, and 500 dry. I did all my jambs, inner fenders first and cleared it. Then put it together and shot the car. You use fineline tape to mask it to get clean lines. I shot a metillac, so I went from one end to the other, otherwise you can have some issues. You only have 24 hours from base to clear or it will not bond. I was advised to go about 17 hours, so the metillac would not float. It turned out really good I'd say 8 out of 10 :TU: Find a good paint shop that will help, I would have been lost without them. https://www.facebook.com/pages/1969-Buick-Restoration/131828133564349?ref=bookmarks Rich
WHy base coat before you assemble - then base coat again?? You will be out of the recoat window and taking a great risk to contaminate base with finger prints / dirt. Plus a waste of paint Just shoot the entire car with base - then clear
If you do go with black.or any solid color use a urethane single stage its easier cost less and will last just as long, plus as long as you repeat the number of coats and it comes out of the same can and goes over the same color sealer its gonna be fine. This is my basic routine I follow when doin a high end job ie $10k 1. Strip car with 80 paper I do not blast or chemical strip any body panel just small parts are glass beaded or dipped in thinner 2. I fix all the known large dents, rust repair, etc on the bare metal, book says to epoxy prime first, I have in the past but normally I dont. 3.epoxy prime with DP or equivalent then after 1hr flash it gets 4 coats of high build primer 4.Dry block with 180 5.reprime with high build 3cts if needed if not the 3cts of surfacer I live omni 182 for this 6.dry block with 180 if high build was used then follow with 3cts of surfacer , 320 wet if surfacer was used followed by 400with firm and soft sponges, I water block with super high tech paint paddles btw 7.seal with appropriate color then spray if doing a metallic try to spray as much at once as possible and mounted wher its going to be, if solid color just make sure you repeat the process each time , same with the metallic if you see you gonna run short of paint have more mixed and color in with that and topcoat with the original mix
Ditto I'm with hugger! I paint waterborne all day long. and it's awesome. been painting cars every day for 30 yrs. just painted my 72 stage 1 after 18 yrs restoration . single staged car with Nexa (ICI) PPG secondary line. witch is better than PPG . anyway . Put 3 coats of single stage. 3rd. coat mixed single stage w/ activated clear . 1:1 stirred and sprayed! wow! next day . sanded w/ 500 then put 2 semi wet coats of clear! wa la! finished. not easy but rewarding if dirt free! did not sand or rub car! that was a miracle! got lucky Don't put on to wet. if you run it your screwed! and if you change cap to 1.4 you won't run it. nobody uses 1.5 you might solvent pop! paint job. that's tiny dots all over finish. also if you choose to take this MISSION. use slow hardener & slow thinner!!!!! always... never fast.
basecoat clearcoat black is not deeeeep enough! single stage black clear coated is veeeery deep! very black. all the good painters know! trust me! but I'm not the good painter.
Rex don't wet sand! try to dry sand . primer is porous . holds water like sponge. some people might think I'm crazy. good restorers never wet sand. your choice .
frank don't rush it take your time. don't use sticky gluey tack rags! DuPont makes the better dryer type. make sure you wipe car down with waterborne/ alcohol cleaner. to collect dust/dirt. then solvent wipe. and always blow car off with blow gun
I would yes , and when it comes time to buff , thats where it really gets tricky ive seen a bunch of cars with probably pretty decent body work be destroyed with a soft sponge during the buffing process
