Need a Clutch and Pressure Plate - Recommendations?

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by knucklebusted, Mar 27, 2023.

  1. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I need a new clutch and pressure plate for my mild 350 project. Anyone have any thoughts on some decent ones? I don't see a lot of track time in my future and I also don't want my left leg to get tired.

    Can I put anything other than a 10.5" in a stock 350 manual flywheel?

    I've looked at Rock Auto and some other places but I'm finding very few bone stock replacements or lots of course splined options. I've got a fine splined input shaft on my transmission in my 71.
     
  2. avmechanic

    avmechanic Well-Known Member

    Do you have a flat flywheel or a raised friction surface flywheel? If it is the raised surface flywheel you will be limited to the 10.5" clutch.
    Greg
     
    knucklebusted likes this.
  3. jcc

    jcc Well-Known Member

    I would recommend the Centerforce diaphragm clutch with the centrifugal weights. The diaphragm design makes it easy on your leg, while the centrifugal weights give it more clamping power.
     
    dan zepnick likes this.
  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    It is factory stock 350 flywheel that comes on a 1971 350 Buick.

    Is that a particular brand? Where would I find one? I didn't see one they say will fit at Summit or Jegs.

    I found this at Summit that they say will fit.

    McLeod Racing 75025 McLeod Street Level Clutch Kits | Summit Racing
     
  5. jcc

    jcc Well-Known Member

    Go to the Centerforce website to get correct p/n's, then order from Summit. That is what I recently did for my 65 Skylark. Centerforce I for mostly stock applications, or Centerforce II for heavy-duty. The Centerforce I will support up to 464 lb-ft of torque.
     
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  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, I found the KCF756116 is the correct one. Is this a drop-in replacement with everything else stock?

    Have you driven yours yet? How do you like it?
     
  7. jcc

    jcc Well-Known Member

    I had one in it before, and it worked great. Only reason I replaced it was because my throw-out bearing needed replacement. As long as I had it apart, I replaced clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bushing, and throw-out bearing, so should be good for many more miles. No modifications are needed. Just make sure the number of splines on the clutch disc match the number of splines on your transmission input shaft. Also, be aware that there are 2 different heights for throw-out bearings. Make sure you get the right height for your application.
     
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  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I wimped out and bought a McLeod street kit. It was half the cost and it is mostly stock. If I swap in a 455, I'll probably need an 11" anyway so I wouldn't have reused it.
     
  9. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    It arrived today and looks pretty good, very stock-appearing. It came with throw-out and pilot bushing. At first, the alignment tool wouldn't go in the pilot but it had plastic casting flash on it. Now, it fits like a glove.

    [​IMG]
     
    patwhac, jcc and Dadrider like this.
  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, I'm starting to get things together. I didn't set the pressure plates next to each other but they looked similar. The throw out bearing was the same height.

    The issue I'm finding is the clutch pedal is about an inch off the floor. Where should I start looking for issues? Throw out bearing too short? Pressure plate wrong?
     
  11. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Clearly, I know nothing about manual transmissions and clutches. I'm ignorant but I can be taught. Edumacate me!

    I took some pictures from underneath. It appears with the throw out bearing lightly against the pressure plate fingers, the clutch is about even with the brake pedal. I do not have a clutch return spring yet. Maybe this all goes away with that in place. It used to set a good bit higher than the brake pedal. It is power brakes if that helps.

    Also, the clutch fork doesn't appear to be too far forward. I supposed I could adjust less travel into it and see what that does.

    Pictures for your viewing pleasure.

    The clutch is even with the brake pedal at contact with the pressure plate fingers.
    [​IMG]

    Clutch fork seems to be in the proper place for no pedal pressure. I've got maybe another 1/2" of adjustment on the rod. I figure 1/2" at the rod is good for 1" at the pedal.
    [​IMG]
    Hard to see but the throw out bearing is resting on the fingers. If I pull it all the way back to the transmission side, I can get about 1/2" of distance away from the pressure plate fingers.
    [​IMG]
     
    patwhac likes this.
  12. 78Regal350

    78Regal350 Well-Known Member

    Bumping this up to see what you think of the Street Level clutch. After following along with your build thread, I think my engine output & overall car usage will be similar to yours (once it’s all finally back together again).
     
  13. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    So far, so good. I haven't done a 5000-side-step or anything but in first or second gear, it will hold sudden full throttle and doesn't chatter on take off.
     
  14. 78Regal350

    78Regal350 Well-Known Member

    Good deal!
     
  15. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Make sure your throw out bearing is installed correctly on the fork clip
     
    Super Bald Menace likes this.

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