Can anyone give me step by step their secret to mirror finish stainless trim? I need to know exactly what wheels and what compounds in order that you use. I am going to polish all my stainless on the car. I have been practicing with a piece on the bench but cant seem to get those last little tiny buff scratches out. I have seen stainless that is flawless but cant seem to achieve that level. I have tested several wheels and just about every color of compound using a variety of progression methods but just have not been able to get it perfect. It looks good to the naked eye but under flourescent light at an angle you can still see those pesky micro fine scratches. :ball:
It sounds like you have the process down pretty close. Let me preface by saying I am not a professional nor have I been trained by one but have spent alot of time over the years learning by trial and error. There is no set process than can be used standard on every piece. I inspect each piece closely and its condition determines what process I use because its very easy to create more work for yourself if you start to agressively.....though sometimes you do have to make the overall piece worse before it gets better so its a delicate decision in the process. For your particular part its hard to tell without actually seeing them in person but it sounds like you are at the point where it just takes more "PATIENCE" and "TIME" with the a loose sewn or cotton flannel wheel like this. http://www.tptools.com/p/767,78_Canton-Flannel-Buffing-Wheels.html Its kind of like the difference between a high quality paint job and a concourse one. For a concourse job the difference is hours and hours more blocking, prep and buffing for what amounts to minimal quality improvement that only the most particular eye would notice. I use white rouge compound for the final and sometimes cheat by keeping a different flannel wheel and use a non-abrasive metal polishing compound. I work it into the wheel by hand because it will fly off if just applied to surface since its in semi-liquid form. I use a 30 year old variable seed converted Craftsman bench grinder. :eek2: Not exactly glamorous but it gets the job done. Having said all that, by using flourescent light that will get you the best surface but sometimes I admit I will give up and just take it outside into natural light and it suddenly looks perfect and on to the next piece I go. One last note never mix compounds on wheels. Keep separate wheels and only use one type of compound. I use a sisal wheel for roughing in with a more agressive compound. Sometimes I skip this step if the piece is nice. If I have to remove deeper scratches with blocked sandpaper or a scratch pad on a rotary tool this step is always necessary. Next I use a spiral sewn wheel with white rouge for middle step (this wheel gets the most use by far) and if the piece is nice to begin with I start here. Then a flannel or loose sewn wheel for final with white rouge or the non-abrasive polish I mentioned. http://www.tptools.com/dg/78_Buffing-Wheels-Arbor-Type.html
Buffing trim is really, really dangerous. If the wheel catches your part, two things are certain: the part will be mangled, and you will get hurt. This is one part of the restoration game that I would farm out to a pro. It has happened to me, and many others.
You are right about that. It can slice and dice you while turning the trim into a pretzel. Also I would add that you must get the piece hot to achieve the best results.
I know what he means. I have sent parts flying like bullets when using a grinding wheel. Same deal. I would rather pay someone.
Good points on the safety aspect especially if you don't have anyone to show you first hand how to avoid an accident. I guess each person has to know their limitations and go from there. Probably not as much a concern for me as I've worked around moving equipment all my life, and still have all my appendages. I've never had a single incident where the piece caught enough to damage it or me or even pull it our of my hands. By no means do I say this in the context of bragging but rather if you follow the rules its not that dangerous IMO. When I started polishing my own stainless 25 years ago the warnings were the same and I took them seriously and never had the slightest concern. Most stainless pieces have rolled or rounded edges on the exposed part. Its the sharp edges at the ends and under side of the piece you must keep away from the wheel and/or angle it in a fashion away from the direction of travel to keep it from grabbing. There will still be those who want to polish themselves so a word to the wise; wear safety glasses, a dust mask, snug fitting gloves with a rubber grippy palm but not too thick so you can feel how hot the piece is getting, and MOST IMPORTANTLY........do not have any distractions and NEVER EVER take your eyes off the piece when its on or near the wheel. No friends hanging around BS'ing, no pets, no nothing that can distract you. Stay focused. If you have ADD, do not attempt this! If you consume alcohol or large amounts of energy drink while working do not attempt this.!:TU: Standard practice for me I always hesitate a few seconds before feeding the part or turning it to make sure its oriented properly with respect to wheel rotation to avoid a sharp edge catching the wheel.
Since you only have the small scratches left why not try this? http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...lishing-wheel-well-trim&p=2154945#post2154945 The sanding disc I am using at the end is 3000 grit and it does a great job with little effort, and should help you finish off what your doing.
Try to get the dents out from behind where possible. I start with a 220 grit sandpaper then work up to fine grit paper. then start with a sewn buffing wheel and a grey cutting compound. I then switch to the white compound. finally a non sewn wheel with a polish like Wenol. Eastwood sells the kits with the wheels and compounds. My convertible windshield stainless trim actually had the top material pattern pressed into it. No amount of polishing would take it out. Sanding was the only way to remove it. I too cannot stress the part about being careful when holding the part against the wheel. Wear leather gloves and glasses. This requires TONS of patience. Don't rush!!! Chris
I have zero knowledge in this subject but I ran across this Little bit of info, if it helps... http://www.classiccar.co.nz/articles/how-to-restore-chrome-and-stainless-trim-189
From experience.... Wear good leather gloves and a full face shield. Nearly lost my eye about this time last year doing a headlight trim ring. Look at Eastwood for all your buffing and polishing needs. they have everything including how to videos. http://www.eastwood.com/buffing.html
Thanks to all. Good info. Keep them coming. I have been trying to steer clear of Eastwood. Seems all they want to sell are overpriced kits. I am leaning toward buying a completely new start from Caswell. They sell open stock for a reasonable price. Although it would seem that a person should be able to buy this stuff locally. I haven't found single good source in town. Keep posting. Many Thanks...:Comp:
There is alot of good info on what Jason is saying, i have been doing my own trim for 35+ years i did all the trim on my 69 skylark custom including the rocker mouldings. I found that cross polishing leaves the slight marks your are talking about, after the last step i would stack 3 or 4 soft wheels together and run the moulding longways on the wheel not across it, i got really good results like that.I dont know if it hides the marks better or makes them harder to see but it works for me and i am a fussy s.o.b.I know i dont have to tell you to be really really careful if you try this method.Buy all means take your time and be careful .Good luck. Greg
Yes its very dangerous... I got hurt about 10 days ago buffing a headlight bezel. I usually do not buff anything like that, but it was a last min. thing where it had to be done on an old 55 chevy. I finished buffing it, turned the machine off and just happened to bump the part on the buffing wheel (3/4 horse motor buffer) it snatched it so fast out of my hand. I thought my hand was gone. So yes if anyone thinks about buffing trim, remember is like a razor in your hand... only takes one mistake to get hurt. Luckily i got away with stitches, cut one artery, no legiments, and still have feeling in my fingers. I know my pics are graphic, but this will make you want to leave this to the professionals.
Those pictures certainly drive the point home. Sounds like a second or two of distraction at the end of the process and you're feeling lucky that it wasn't worse! I hope you heal up with no loss of movement, just a scar that's a helluva conversation piece! Seems like heavy leather work gloves, a full face shield and a lot of concentration are in order. Buff a little at a time. Marathon buffing (which was not the case with the sliced hand) will lead to getting too comfortable or a lapse in attention. Even with good hand and face protection, parts can fly anywhere. Respect the wheel or turn it over to a professional. Smartin has done a lot of polishing for his own cars and I believe he does it on the side as a hobby funding endeavor. Your parts would have to go to St Louis, but if he's willing to do them, I would imagine the price would be reasonable and the results superb. Whatever you decide, be careful.
DAMN! Thats 1 nasty cut. Headlight ring is what got me too. Its still hanging in the shop as a reminder.
my hand is healing up , movement coming back, still swollen and sore, still numb in that area, but i can feel all my fingers. I go in tuesday for a check up on it. But being with trim is like being cut with a razor, I think it would of cut through the leather as well. The dr. said i had a clean cut, a glove or something else could of hung and actually broke bones, said i was lucky. I just know now not to mess with a buffer on a pedestal. paying someone to do it is cheaper than a medical bill. I did have on safety glasses lol, which no one else at that shop ever used. ---------- Post added at 12:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 PM ---------- got any pics of your cut? How bad did it get you??
