Need Help With Electric Fuel Pump Install

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Mad-Medic, Aug 19, 2003.

  1. Mad-Medic

    Mad-Medic Well-Known Member

    Hello, I am wanting to install an electric fuel pump in my car. What do I do about the return line from the mechanical pump. Should I just use the electric pump as an assist pump, or how do I install the electric as the only pump?

    Thanks
    Ron
     
  2. rpkzm

    rpkzm Well-Known Member

    Hey Ron,

    I'll tell you how I did mine. First I ran a 3/8's ID rubber fuel line from my gas tank to a fram canister filter. I came out of that and into a holley BLUE electric pump. Next I went from that up to a regulator bolted to my inner fender well bypassing my mech. fuel pump. I took my mech. pump off and put a cover plate over the hole. From my regulator I went over to my 850 quad. carb. I set my fuel pressure to 61/2 psi and it kept that pressure even at WOT. I didn't have to run a return line either. I also left the factory steel lines on the car, just make sure you blow them out before you cap them at both ends if you choose to leave them on.



    Rick


    P.S. that was before I decided to put a supercharger on my 455, I have a completly different system now! :Brow:
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2003
  3. Vern

    Vern Well-Known Member

    Hey Rick nice looking car. Food for thought rubber line is cheap but it does have alot more drag or pumping resistance than metal line. I am told IHRA / NHRA rules limit no more than 12" in one stretch for safty reasons probably mostly fire related. Also the Holley Blue is cheap and will get the job done but it is also loud and does not have a good reputation in general for reliability. I am told that dead heading the pump with no return line heats up the pump and fuel and shortens the life of the pump. Also fwiw I have been told not to attach the regulator to the fender well because in a collision the fender often buckles riping the regulator away from the fuel line. Raw fuel on a hot engine is not a good recepie. I have seen how quick **** can happen and all I can say is have fun but take extra precaution because it is worth the extra time and thought. Certainly that setup is inexpensive and will work. If you are not going to bracket race etc and or only drive the car on nice weather weekends that setup will work. Not knocking your info just trying to add some additional info for consideration.
     
  4. 462CID

    462CID Buick newbie since '89

     
  5. rpkzm

    rpkzm Well-Known Member

    Hey Vern,

    Your right about the using as much steel lines as possible for fire safty reasons and the bracket racing rules and your right about the whole safty issue of placement on the regulator. I wasn't thinking of a year round daily driver. I only drive mine in the summer and on nice, no rain days. The only time I heard the BLUE pump was when I turned on the ignition switch before starting my car.


    Anyway, Ron don't repeat my set up, I would hate to be responsable for a tragic turn of events!
    :( never mind:Do No:
     
  6. Mad-Medic

    Mad-Medic Well-Known Member

    Thanks for all the help everybody. I have an idea, and want to see what you guys think. If I want to run some type of return line for saftey sake, how about this. What if I want to run a second inline fuel filter located at the frame area near where the mech pump. is now. Instead of using the regual filter that is the one way only I was to use the filter that has two exit tubes the primary is the large hole and the small hole is for the return line. Then run the line to my carb/regulator.

    Later
    Ron
     
  7. 462CID

    462CID Buick newbie since '89

    I'm a bit confused (I just got up) but it seems to me that you're running a filter far away from the carb, on the supply line, to accomodate your return line?

    Have the filter on your supply line as close as possible to the carb. Vapor lock bad, clean fuel good.
     

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