need more zinc in your oil? read this

As I understand it Denny Mannor has said that we should put in EOS at every oil change. Should have asked him for confirmation when I saw him in Autozone last month. :spank:

 

Lucas now makes a zinc additive. Saw it in National Dragster but no one local has it or knows about it yet.

 

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=80&catid=3&loc=show

 

Hi folks,

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but the last report I read said that good old STP oil treatment had a pretty high amount of Zinc.

Like G.M. E.O.S., it is a pretty heavy vicosity, but the same report recommended STP 4-cylinder additive, in the red can/bottle. It was supposed to have the same amount of Zinc, w/o the heavy viscosity, which we really don't want when we start up a new engine.

They must have pulled the 4-cyl. version from the market, though, as I haven't seen it for a while. Again, please chime in, as STP is cheap and readily available.

Regards,

Ranger
Aiken, SC

 

need more zinc just buy brad/penn break-in oil made in pennsylvania at the 1st oil refinery in usa they bought the refinery off of kendahl oil ten years ago. don't forget zinc comes from pennsylvania shale no other place has this resource not texas or saudi or iraq. further more most synthetics have friction modifiers in them witch older cast iron engines and cams lifters don't appreciate that well! that's my 2cent's. get on brad/penns web site. and you will see 90%of the businesses selling their products are engine builders.

 

i think these oil/ engine problems have been happening the past 8 to 10 years now. mainly because pennsoil,kendall,Quakerstate and wolfshead all have closed or left pa. except brad/penn(kendall) oil. when i was a young boy. when my father put oil in his car the oil had a green cast to it. today no oil has that! but brad/penn oils have that green cast.

 

So what's the news on the Brad Penn oil since this thread?

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283416

Devon

 

I use Camshield.

The bottle design allows you to measure your dose.

 

I have been using 15W40 for cam break-in for years, then switch to 10W30 Mobil 1 after break-in and have never had a cam lobe go flat, and I have never used ZDDP in anything. After reading so much on the topic I finally ordered a case of ZDDPlus. I have to fire up a fresh GTO engine this week so I figure it can't hurt. I have straight 30W in it and a bottle of ZDDPlus for the cam break-in and will switch to 10W30 with ZDDPlus after that. Overkill is good :TU:

 

I used rotella w 30 amd eos in my motor for start up 3 oil changes and 1000 normal street driving miles later went to mobil 1 no addatives lost a cam in 500 miles . Not to say it was not happening from the start but ran fine and in a weekend a hard drive highway speeds + there was nothing left to the lobe or lifter .
With that said . I Think this is a great thread from what i found from my loss of a cam, and what i have seen in my motor and read here , i have to think it was a oil/ zinc issue ,
will recam and try the over kill method mentioned , and put it to the test

 

It's interesting how cultural the opinions surrounding oil are. Most of the oil used for japanese cars here is 10w40 or 15w40. For anything a bit older 20w50 is used. The idea of a thicker oil helps provide a thicker film is quite well accepted. At the store I work at there are only 2 options for oils ending in 30 (a 10w and a 5w30) and they are not at all popular. I use a 15w60 in mine for a number of reasons. Check out there website they have som arguements that u may not hav considered www.penrite.com.au . As far as I can see th only downside I can see is reduced horsepower due to th greater load on the pump but the benefits on the bearings outways this in my opinion

 

Oil carries away heat from the bearings. More oil FLOW through the bearings = better heat rejection of the bearings/journals.

If there IS an oil film/wedge; it's enough to protect the journal. But too-thick oil could allow damaging heat build up due to lower flow rate.

As always, there are conflicting requirements that prevent extremism one way or the other; and some middle-ground that allows some amount of latitude depending on the exact application that the oil is expected to survive in.

In general, I say to use the thinnest oil practical; if the engine is used in an extreme application where the oil gets too thin from heat--better to use an oil cooler than to use a heavier oil.

 

I don't personally know anyone running thicker than 10-30 in anything (ranges from 20 year old beaters of all makes to brand new BMW's) unless the engine is basically falling apart(or diesel). You have much higher average temperature where you are located though. Just because something is quite well accepted does not make it fact and also they may be doing, slowly, more harm than good long term.

Read this, some interesting info:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics