We have a spot open here for a Buick if anyone is interested. We are currently working on a '40 Chevy street rod, '57 Bel Air convertible, '67 GS400, and Mike's '72 Skylark. You can see his post here: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=118849 Shoot us a line if you are interested.
I got to visit Sean's shop last weekend. It is a fantastic shop and the work is really top-notch. They can actually do mechanical work too, so if you need a complete restoration they can do the whole job. Nice place! -Bob C.
this may have bene discussed before. But I noticed that the black widow II was painted using single stage paint. Is that preferred for a resto over a base/clear?
We typically use single stage on any solid color cars. The reason is that is a little easier to work with, just as durable if not more than BC/CC, and it can be touched up very easy. If you get a chip you can fill it in, sand and buff it, and barely see the repair. Also, we painted the Black Widow II in DCC9300 which is the deepest of all the blacks. And it Shiiiiiines!!! It is really just a matter of preference. I have just had good luck using it. I've used it on my own cars and seen the long term benefits.
Don't know if these are trade secrets, but I thought i'd pick your brain since you have a reputation on this site for doing nice work. What is the typical bodywork/paint sequence. What products have you had luck using. Some say filler then epoxy primer, then high build, then sealer, then paint. Others say primer, filler, primer, high build, sealer, paint, etc. I only have experience with two garage jobs. They went, rage gold, 2k (supposed to be a primer and sealer?), then paint.
Our usual sequence usually goes like this: -Media blast/sand blast all panels. -Clean and put in black or red epoxy primer with in 24hrs <- very important or things will flash rust. Dont handle with bare hands!! Sometimes sanding the bare panel with 220 is needed. -Once in primer panels can be handled and bodywork can start. We start by giving the panels a quick block. The black primer alows you to see any low spots or imperfections when sanded. We finish all bodywork in at least 180 usually 220. This keeps sand scratches from showing up later. -We then re-apply a coat of epoxy primer over the whole panel. Once flashed, at least an hour, we apply primer surfacer. A 2K is the only way to go. Apply three good heavy coats. After market ones are OK, we use RM DP226 though. I've used aftermarket on a few jobs and my shop truck and it has held up well. Finishing your bodywork off in a fine grit is key. Dont try to fill 80 grit. It will shrink down the road. - We then block the panels with 180 and re-prime them. Use a guide coat on the primer. (mist of black spray paint) This will let you see lowspots as you sand. Also, with a black primer underneath you will also know to stop is you start to see that come through. - Once the panels have been reprimed we try to let them sit for as long as possible. We'll put them out in the sun in the summer or run them through several bake cycles in the booth. This make all the body work get good and dry and minimises shrinkage. (sand scratches showing after it is painted) - Then everything gets block sanded again with 220 and reprimed. Depending on the job this is the final prime. We might thin the primer out just a little to get it to lay down a little smoother. We also might jamb parts in this step. A wet on wet idea. Apply color to the jambs right after the primer has flashed off. - We then sand everything with 320-600 for final color. Seam sealing might be done here as well. Like drip rails, trunk jambs, rockers etc. We like to use two part seam sealer. - Then PAINT IT!!!! :TU: part B = buffing. I'll go into that later. I hate buffing.
paul you got a PM and yes we do small repairs as well. We actually do quite a bit of them on older cars.
Hey next time your wandering around St Louis with your trailer just stop by and grab either one of my projects.
well, I do have a conection in MO. He is coming up to check on a project we are doing for him. so, we can get it up here!!!
John, did you happen to see the Suncoupe we did on my website? The car is done and I need to update the site. I can send you some pics if you like. :beers2:
Wow thats a twin to mine ! Except that mine is a Stage 1 . In would like to see some pics please send them to john.kemper@sbcglobal.net so I can down load them and print !
Maybe you can asist me here . My front floors looked goood until they were sandblasted. Anyway I need the floor repaired. I have some pin holes in the toe kick area on the pass and on the front footwell and toe kick on the drivers side. Question , are the repo floor sections correct enough with the indentaions (strengthening ribs) or should I do as another suggested just have the holes brazed and the floor fiberglassed over? I would expect that that would look ok but I just have a problem with glass on the floor section.
I guess I would have to see it. If it has been sandblasted on both sides and etch primed you can get away with just long strand fill on the area as long as it isn't to big and the holes are not bigger than a 1/4". Post a pic if you can. I would go with goodmark floor section if you have to. I found their panels to be best.
http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=145232 This link is to the areas of the floor that are bad. I have spent so much money already I do not want to take a shortcut that will show up later on. I will look into the flopor sections from Goodmark.
