The "gloves" are Already on bud. I believe she's dang near figured out headlight wise. The only reason I am going to piece by piece trace a lot of my wiring and their connections is because I am working with a 100% factory 72 skylark sport coupe that never saw a day of maintenance or upkeep until I bought it for $900 when I was 16. 7 years ago now. ALL dash/instrument cluster electrical was checked and fixed by me a little over a year ago now. I was truly amazed at how many gadgets were under there and supposed to be working, that I had NO CLUE the car even had. Due to some things that had come up in life, this thing actually had ended up as my daily driver for almost an entire 5 years. Put over 150k miles onto the original, not well maintained motor. Kindve even surprised me. She's always looked like hell but long as I've taken care of her, she keeps runnin' like a top. Decided to finally park it almost 2 years ago. I realized it was impossible to make any major improvements while needing to drive it to work the next morning. Now I at least get to work on one thing at a time as my low budget permits. Now that the headlights are back in order, Everything works great on it! Just needs body work BAD. Real, real bad. My father is incredibly knowledgeable about these buicks, he's been racing a 71 GS 455 since he was 16. He can usually give me some direction on my current resto project. But there's two things that man doesn't know a thing about, the electrical systems, or body work. Slowly learning electrical myself, but as far as the body work needed I'm helpless. I could aquire the needed panels, but I can't pay somebody 4 years of my salary to get most of it done. Long as she gets done before I get done, I die a happy man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
EXCELLENT BAKER! Now we need a pic and your name LOL... If its truly a beater, start with one fender or door and stuff some bondo in there and attack it with a grinder. Body work aint no biggy! ws
Haha. My name is Jayson. I would sleep much better at night if it were the body work projects that were getting started. Will take some pics when the sun is up. Both rear quarters are needed BAD. There's practically none of the Lower sections even left. Just giant rust holes. I could gather the money to buy a set of skins for it within a couple weeks. But with no body guy, no knowledge or equipment...I don't think they'd do me much good laying in the garage. Body work is something Ive always wanted to learn how to do. But in order to be taught you must first find your teacher. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hey buddy. Ive almost finished up creating my own complete headlight wiring harness for this thing. Was tired of trying to track down a problem area when the car is under slow restoration, so it was time for a fresh everything. However, I was wondering if you could confirm the ground locations for both the front parking lights/turn signals, and the side marker lights as well? I'l just make my own new grounds in different locations if i need to but I like to try to ground as close to the original location as possible. Makes things easier in the future with knowing where things are. Also if you could let me know what/if any components of the front lighting system share the same ground location please do! thanks, jayson
Hey Jayson... hope things are well in Ohio! Going by memory at 0430hrs and looking at previous stuff here, It appears that the front turn signals share the ground with the headlamps. Those are 1157 type bulbs. That would be the third "black" wire on the turn signal lamp socket. The initial ground is still between the lamp buckets. The side marker lights (2 wire) are still fed by the turn signal ass'y. Those are running lamps (on with headlamps) and also a second element for the signal. I'm reluctant to say it but I think the SML's are grounded through the sockets, but IIRC those are plastic. ??? I am a little lost at that point, but the ground from the battery post to the front fender is critical as that is also the core support ground. That wire in itself may also be a fusible link. Not too sure on that one. If you get that figured out 'splain it to me too OK??? Regards, Bill in TR
Oh yeah, we NEED to have them scanned and posted. I love me some period correct photos and even better when they were taken in the period. Good job on the wiring and write up.
Thanks Texast and yachtsmanbill. I have an update on the wiring situation. I finally decided that it was worth taking the time to sit in my basement for a few days, and solder my replacement sockets almost identical to how the factory wires ran from them. I did a nice clean job and THOROUGHLY checked my work. For me, it's not just about getting the light to work. Firstly it's about learning. Secondly, it's me creating what's going to be its function as its harness for the next years to come. I wanted to do a good enough job that I never have to worry about problems in the near future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What I did was get my sockets together for just one side at first, I started with connecting the passenger socket wiring. I took to brand new bulbs for it and lined them up in on my work bench, then got the chassis manual out. Just followed the original wire routing as close as I could, soldering each connection and split just like it was factory. Before you knew it I was finished and they looked nice and clean. I went and installed them on the car. While doing that I noticed somehow my RH turn signal was not grounded, while not knowing if it shared the same ground as the headlamps, I soldered a lug to the wire and grounded it with my second battery ground location on the inner fender. Was going to just ground it with headlights, but that was how I had wired it before. And felt that may have created some of the issue. Well, after installing of the new sockets and wires I made. We have new results. Turn signals are perfectly functional, headlights will still all four light up when hitting dimmer switch, but now when I pull switch to low beam position. I get ONE [drivers side} low beam to come on itself. I had gotten so excited seeing it kick in until I walked over to the other side of the car and saw the passenger side low beam still wasn't lit. So...it seems like everything is pointing to the dimmer switch. Or...maybe headlight switch? Your opinions? For it to change behavior after new wiring is what isn't making me jump the gun on saying its a switch just yet. Will be replacing dimmer anyway just to see, but wanted any of your thoughts yachtsman. Also, since I've done this my next job is to tackle the side marker lights, please explain to me how these "run off" the turn signals? Also I'm not familiar with the term "sml". So I don't know what you say you think are grounded through the sockets, but you see plastic? Please explain Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like youre on the right track. I must apologize about abbreviations; when writing this stuff ( I use the two finger typing method on a PC) about a long winded subject, the first time I may use an abbreviation SML (Side Marker Lights) or PO (previous owner) to keep from retyping the same long verbiage over and over... mea culpa! Since you are now at the testing stage, be aware that you may need to install the cars battery into the circuit. A rectified, low amp charger may not give positive results. I learned not to use a charger on electronics as the wave sine still prevails even tho youre supplying "DC". So with the assembly installed you now need to "prove" whats going on. This is where youll need a VOM (volt-ohm-meter). We'll call the probes "stabs". A smidge of paint or rust can break a ground and itll piss you off for days trying to find it without one. Youll need to prove the grounds first as they are the critical path (electrically speaking). Set the meter on OHMS and touch the two stabs (red and black) together. You should get .1000 ohms or even .10 ohms but it proves the contact is good. 0.000 means its open as when NOT touching the two stabs together. Id start at the battery and check ALL the points on the fender ground (screws, contact point, wire to lug solder job and the fender itself). That's easy; now youll need to prove every other ground in the system INCLUDING the braided engine to firewall ground at the rear of the cylinder heads. Theres one or two from each head or just one. They get greasy, rusty. loose or had a lazy mechanic avoid them. The headlight switch and dimmer may be grounded as well, I don't recall specifically. They may even have a dedicated ground (wire) to each device. Check them anyway for future reference! Do that ON and OFF. I'm not too sure, but when the parking/headlamps are ON, The SMLs are on as well. When you turn the turn signals on, they go off and on alternatively with the front (or rears) signal. Theres two wires to the SMLs and a plastic fixture. One wire has to be hot, and one be a ground. "I THINK" due to the low amperage draw of such a tiny light, thats causing the alternating flash when the signal is on. Its "robbing" the ground intermittently. You can prove that with the VOM too on the ground side of the socket. Are all 4 headlamps new? New or old check them with the VOM as well and also check the plugs for hot and ground. Its a more positive test than the bulb itself. Never trust Hecho en China stuff anymore. Itll drive you nuts! All the above will prove the circuitry. Don't forget theres a turn signal switch and turn AND 4 way flasher (and switch!) in there too. Good luck, good hunting, and Happy Memorial day! ws
Thanks bud. I can't thank you enough for your helpfulness and patience throughout such a long topic. Testing with all new bulbs btw. All running lights, side marker lights, and turn signal lights function 100% properly at this point. Passenger side low beam just won't come on unless I hit the floor dimmer switch then bam, all four headlamps come on, all other lights remain working. Since I work for Napa I Popped the dimmer switch out tonight, getting one tomorrow for only a couple of bucks. I guess it's a comon thing for headlights to act like this if the dimmer switch is shot. It has a mechanical "push down" type pin that is supposed to depress a plastic "push down" type pin that either depresses, or releases a plastic mechanism inside the switch. Depressed engages brights, I think mines probably getting stuck and not pressing the plastic mech fully down, to engage the low beam system. I took it apart to see how it worked and this is damn near got to be the problem. Couple bolts, couple wires, new switch. Should work like a charm. Thinking about getting a new connector with it as well since my employee price for it is hardly over a dollar. Il post an update tomorrow afternoon to see if switch fixes the problem, or if they start acting differently after new one is installed. The one I pulled out is the delco factory original switch, no suprise it could've been causing these problems all along. 50 years out of a switch isn't to bad to Me
Also, if any of you guys decide to tackle your own front end wiring projects, use napa's Echlin line for all switches and connectors. I've used duralast, napas mileage, plus, and echlin lines throughout this process. Napas echlin line parts for it are the only ones that meet the oem specs of the factory sockets, wires and switches. Duralast and mileage plus come with thinner gauge wire lengths, cheaper socket material, and don't take long to burn up. Since I work for Napa just thought I'd offer the tip, and If anyone ever needs me to get them the Napa part #'s for the oem parts to just ask me, il gladly provide them to you. I think we all know you can't always trust the parts guy, well I'm the parts guy whose looked at, and tested all the specs vs each other. After my system is completely working il be doing a write up thread on how to properly replace all four headlight sockets as they were from the factory. I'm getting so much more brightness out of my lights after installing the new sockets properly. Cleaning the old ones will keep power going to 'em. But man do they look pretty with 100% fresh juice.
Sounds like youre in the home stretch pal! Don't forget the dielectric grease on all the contacts/plugs etc. Are ya taking any pics yet?? Id like to see that dimmer switch apart for one... ws
Damn! I threw the switch away after prying it open and visually seeing what was going on. It was hell to get open its welded shut. Il take some picks of the car right now tho. But seriously, don't go too harsh on me. It's a beater, and I know that. I don't need anymore down talk about how bad of shape the body is in. Just like the front lighting situation, one piece at a time,. I will get there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
in the middle of uploading the pictures of the car. since i threw the switch away, i can still pretty easily explain to you whats inside and how it works. Very simple mechanical mechanism. As you know, when you hit the dimmer switch with your foot, your are putting pressure on the top cylindrical part of the switch, under the top of that cylinder are two springs to hold tension, as well as release the switch back into its undepressed position after hitting the switch with your foot. That's probably the most sophisticated part of the whole switch. But the all the real work is done under the cylindrical shaped piece, the entire top piece of the switch is no more than a basic spring "pedal" design. If you were to have a switch in your hand, at the very bottom, right behind the three electrical contacts where the connector would plug into, is where all of the switch work is done. And it is done mechanically. inside the bottom of that switch, you have a piece of hard plastic like material, it is the shape of a rhombus. (picture a diamond, and rotate it 180 degrees. in the middle of this sideways diamond shaped piece of plastic is a basic rubber/plastic hold down. simply to hold the sideways diamond in a stationary position, but allows it to swivel. once apart, at the very bottom of the cylindrical shaped part of the switch, where it meets the opening behind the electrical contacts, is a simple plastic "push down pin". at least that's what i would call it. When you click the top of the switch as you would to toggle your brights on and off, the pin depresses a certain amount of pressure, and holds the sideways diamond piece of plastic into a certain position. (high beam, or low beam). When depressing the switch, like you were turning on your high beams, the pin pushes the diamond down and continues to hold it in that position. When depressing the switch again, say to turn off your high beams, this pin depresses the diamond piece down with a little more pressure, which causes the piece to do a 180 degree rotation, and remain held in that position by the same pin. until next time you hit the switch. which will cause another 180 degree swivel back into whatever position it wasn't in before depressing the switch. Might sound more complicated than it is. heres the simple break down. There's a sideways diamond on a swivel type mount, one press on the switch makes a plastic rod push down on it, and rotate the piece 180 degrees and continues to hold it in that position. Until the switch be pressed again, in which the diamond shaped piece will swivel 180 degrees the opposite direction, and remain held there by the pressure of the pin. Does that make sense? Having it apart I learned exactly what that infamous "clicking" noise is when you hit your dimmer switch, it is the springs at the top pushing this plastic pin down. However, i noticed the inside of mine was all dried up and didnt look happy. When I would hit the switch once, it would do a sucessful 180 and remain in place. However, with a second push, the piece would only go about half of its normal rotation and be left in an unlocked, or "unfixed" position.
With is only rotating about half of what is should be to lock itself into the lowbeam position, I would think would explain perfectly why only one low beam light will come on right now, the switch hasn't made the complete 180 it needs to to lock both sealed beam assemblies into low beam position. Only enough rotation to get one. Well, will post pics at work. Taking forever to upload. But im going to work down the street and napa where they have my dimmer switch and a new connector ready for me! will upload pictures of the car as soon as I can and switch is going in right when I get home. Will post update then.
It's a 1972 skylark sport coupe. Damn near everything original except rallye wheels and ofcourse I got rid of that 2 barrel and did an intake swap and had my dad helped me build a race quadrajet on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey man... beaters these days are called survivors! Its a daily driver so that's cool. If ya crash it youll still make out on parts! Its a win-win situation. :ball: Get going on those pics!!! ws
