just about ready to buy some primer. First couple of coats is going to be self etch. Turns out, I have no idea about anything. can someone tell me what mixers I'll need, and what I can't spray over it, or spray it on. Car will not be down to bare metal everywhere, but will be in some large areas. Thanks Joe I'm figuring on something from eastwood, but would rather buy it from the local napa since I get a good deal there. I just need to know mix ratios, what is in the mix besides the primer, thinner, hardner, sealer? an approximate cost would be cool too. Thanks Joe
SELF ETCHING IS BEST FOR BARE METAL. REG PRIME IS LAQUER THINNED NOT GOOD FOR SPRAYING OVER ENAMEL.IT MIGHT WRINKLE OLD PAINT EDGES. IF JUST PART IS BARE METAL USE SPRAY CANS OF SELF ETCH TO GO OVER THE METAL. THEN I WOULD USE AN EPOXY TYPE PRIME.SO YOU GET A GOOD SEAL ON THE OLD STUFF ON THE CAR. ESPECIALLY IF YOUR NOT SURE IF ITS A REPAINT OR NOT THAT YOUR GOING OVER.LOOK FOR A PAINT SUPPLY STORE NEAR YOU NAPA MIGHT NOT HAVE THIS STUFF.REG PRIME AND ETCH IS 1 TO 1 AND EPOXY THAT I USE IS 3 PARTS EPOXY 1 PART ACTIVATOR AND 1 PART ENAMEL REDUCER.
Joe-----I would NOT shoot epoxy over an etching primer...at least not without doing the following FIRST You need to: > go to wherever you are looking to buy the paint and ask the people there (be careful here...the more "general" (vs specialized) the retailer is the less likely they will know what they are talking about). >Read the labels closely on the products you are considering---there might be mixing ratios listed on the cans. >and/or...go to the particular paint manufacturer's website and see if they have data sheets you can download for each specific type of paint. These are INVALUABLE as they typically list mixing ratios, spray temps, spray pressures, any reducer/thinners you may use, flash time between coats, prep steps of the underlying metal and WHAT OTHER COATINGS or PRIMERS you can SPRAY THEM OVER......there is usually even more info on these sheets. The paint supply places typically have these sheets also. If I were you I would get my hands on all of these FIRST. Frankly, without specific questions about specific brands and types of paints/primers you are really winging it by relying on responses to your fairly general questions. Some of these paints are not compatible with certain undercoats. You really don't want to find that out after you have prepped a panel and spent the $$$. No offense to the previous poster intended.
This is my exact problem. no idea. Body work is a complete and total riddle to me... What I really need is a simple, brand specific step by step. Use this primer sealer, with this primer builder, with this type of paint. I'm clueless here and it is quite evident. I think I need to decide what type of paint I'll be using (laquer, enamel BC/CC) then follow those directions. I think I should use all the same brand name too. man this sucks...
Based on your reasoning....LIFE SUCKS....because when you were born you KNEW NOTHING ABOUT ANYTHING (think about it...now you know something...so it really must have sucked when you were born as you knew absolutely nothing then):Brow: BUT--you got where you are today by digging and learning what you needed to....so just consider this another step in your education. And you know what they say about education....."you gotta do the homework". Take a step back after absorbing my attempt to humor you. You picked, possibly, the most technical and challenging part of the "resto" hobby to jump into....bodywork and paint. So.....TAKE YOUR TIME and DO THE HOMEWORK. Paint and body stuff is not "pop quiz" material.....it's more like "final exams". You really don't know how it's gonna look til the LAST STEP is done (spraying the color)...although you really will know if you did all the prior steps a certain way or ways. There are so many steps and so many different materials that it takes SOME PATIENCE and DILIGENCE to dig through it all. Dude---if you don't have any patience then get someone else to do this part of the work. The more patience you have the better the end product will be. I am serious...if you aren't willing to get your hands on the printed material THAT MOST, IF NOT ALL, OF THE PAINT MANUFACTURERS PUBLISH and read it THOROUGHLY FIRST, then you should reconsider taking on the body and paint stuff yourself. Lots of things matter with these modern paints/primers.....toxicity(first and foremost), mixing ratios, reduction ratios, spraying pressures, DRY AIR SUPPLY, undercoats, flash times, spraying temperatures, air supply volume, compatibility with under/topcoats, number of coats, etc, etc. My advice...get this material. Read it...two or three times Then ask questions. These materials and equipment can get VERY EXPENSIVE..as well as the value of YOUR TIME....why would you want to rely on "what someone said on the Internet" to determine how your car ultimately looks??? Get a book on bodywork. And yes, like they say, you'll probably need to practice on a spare fender if you really want it to turn out nice. There are so many "undescribables" and "intangibles" when it comes to paint and bodywork that it really takes actual useage to figure some things out. Know anyone in the bodyshop business???...have any spare hours??....tell them what you are trying to do and go give them a hand in turn for them giving you some "free education". I can say "mix up the filler and slap it on and sand it with 100 grit" but that will get you absoulutely nowhere. PATIENCE MY MAN, PATIENCE. All this is coming from personal experience....there's a pretty darn good looking Stage 1 sitting about 20 feet from me right now that proves it(it's in my avatar). By all means...I'm not saying "stop posting questions"...what I am saying is your question is way too general to really get any useful answers. For example...I watched a guy spray some "etching primer" on a motorcycle fender today....it was followed by a URETHANE PRIMER, not an epoxy primer. You need to get this stuff right before jumping into it or you will find yourself REDOING stuff A LOT. Do what I said: Go to a paint supplier, talk with them about what you want to do, GET SOME WRITTEN INFO TO REVIEW, and then start asking questions after the paint professionals give you their advice. You haven't stated where you are planning on spraying the car, what equipment you have or have access to, etc.....all this affects WHAT YOU CAN DO and what you can use. Maybe somene will post a link to MARTINSNR's "Basics of Painting"...it's a "must read".
Alot of good advice has already been posted, just a couple more things: Most of the time the guys that sell the paint do just that, they may mean well but often they know just enough to make them dangerous. READ the can! these paint products are made to work as a system, why try to reinvent the wheel by mixing & matching paint , primers, base coat, clear etc? You get what you pay for (usually) If you buy cheap materials It'll come back to haunt you, It may look good when your done, but may not last that long. A paint job is like building a house, without a solid foundation it don't matter what you put on top, it just won't last! Proper metal treatment & bodywork is your foundation. If your new to this don't get in over your head, take it 1 panel @ a time. Too many times a job can overwelm you, & if @ some point you decide to let a pro finish the job it will cost you less in the end. In my shop I won't paint over a customers bodywork, I don't know how it's been prepped, & when it starts to fall apart people are going to say "who painted that?" I don't want my good reputation soiled from other peoples work. Didn't mean to ramble on so much, hope some of this helps. I've earned a living @ this for 24 years, owned & operated my shop for 15.
71462GSX, Please post your name ( we're all friends here) AND your location (maybe we can steer some buisness to you!!!!!):beer
Joe have you got your paint materials yet? Since your new to this here are a few ways to go about it: You can buy: Direct to bare metal 2K primer. - "the 1 step" Direct to bare metal 2k primer, then sealer.- "the 2 step" Epoxy primer then 2K primer, and sealer - "a 3 step" Etch Primer then a 2k primer, and sealer- "is another 3 step" Hope this helps you decide.
Joe, go here http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/refmaterials/refmaterials.html to the Martin Senour web site and the PDS "Product Data Sheets". Martin Senour is likely what brand the NAPA store is selling being it is a relabeled Sherwin Williams product. If it is bare metal, yep, the etch is "a" way to go. Or even just epoxy over it, bare metal is fine for it too. 5121 5120 are epoxy numbers (gray and black) and 8827 or 8846/8847 are etch numbers. All of these products have different mixing ratios, and other brands may be different too. So you CAN'T EVER assume that an "etch" is going to have a 1:1 ratio, the 8827 has a 2:3. And that may be changed for VOC rules and all kinds of goofy stuff. READ THE PDS (TECH SHEETS) ON THE PRODUCT. ALL THE ANSWERS ARE THERE. Brian
This is why my car is going to cost so much to paint . It now has self etching primer on it . All the painters I have spoken to say it will have to be sanded off before they will paint it ., With the costy of the paint job I wanted somethinbg on it so it wouldn't be bare metal for 1 year inthe garage .
Three reasons: >they don't want to take the chance there is any rusting forming under there and have to deal with it later if it comes up under their paint >Most primers have a re-coat window where you can shoot right over them...wait outside the window and they have to at least be scuffed, if not scuffed and recoated >Their warranty and/or the paint manufacturer's warranty
