Hey Nailheaders, I am just finishing my rebuild of a 401. I have bored it .060", New Pistons, W-30 Cam from Carmen Faso, High Pressure Oil Pump, Moly Rings, Updated heads. The big question is.........What is the proper break_in proceedure for a new motor. I was told that All I had to do was break in the cam for twenty minutes and all would be good since the rings are moly they don't need the same break in as Cast Iron rings? It is the first motor I have built from the ground up since High School (20 years). I need every advantage I can get. Thanks in advance for any help Ralph Nicastro Jr. Norwalk, CA 1964 Skylark 401 CID Nailhead
New engine break-in Camshaft break-in is critical...my other suggestions are to replace the oil filter after that, and don't run too cool. This has worked great for several rebuilds. Happy motoring! Frank Power :beer
Does a new nailhead oil pump have to be stuffed with vasoline like the thin walls? Also, please tell me more about the rebuild....port matched?pistons? headers? shot peened rods?cross drilled crank? stock lifters? stainless valves? adjustable pushrods? And please tell me more about that cam!Mine is going to get the heave -ho due to a worn lobe. Thanks, Dan
The Oil Pump does need to be primed. There are a couple of ways to do it. If the engine is going to be run soon after the pump is installed, you can immerse the pump in oil and turn the propeller shaft to prime it. The best way to do it if the engine might sit a short time before it is run is to pack it with vaseline. keep feeding it into the suction hole of the pump until it sucks in when you turn the shaft. If it sucks in at this point, the pump is primed and ready to run. The engine was salvaged from Memory Lane in Sunland, CA. The crank had to be turned .020" under to clean up and the bearings used were .020" under for the mains and the Rods. The rods were checked and found to be ok. The block was magnafluxed and bored .060" over. The pistons are Badger. I got the cam from Carmen Faso in New York. It is .286" Lift on the intake and exhaust with a final lift of .485" as best I can remember. Carmen called this a W-30 grind. The oil pump is from Carmen Faso and is a High Pressure unit. I have used the neoprene seals front and back. The distributor is upgraded to HEI by Daves Small Body HEI's in Whittier. I am using the Skylark Exhaust manifolds but I am interrested in the Headers from TA Performance. The manifold is stock and the Carbeurator is a Holly 750 CFM dual feed. My old motor lost it's oil pump just last week so I have had to step up the build. The heads are going to be rebuilt with Hardened valve seats and magnafluxed, (The Works). Everyone say a prayer for me as this is the first motor I have built in 18 years. Will let you all know how it goes. Ralph Nicastro 401 CID Nailhead in 64 Skylark
Question to Buford Buford, What Do I need to do after the cam break in? Do I need to get it up to 2000 RPM on the freeway and vary the RPM's?Do I just need to break in the cam and that is good enough? I need some real help so that I get this right the first time. Just a note to the group. I really believe in Prolong engine treatment. When my oil pump died I drove for twenty or so minutes and the engine never overheated and it drove fine until the lifters ran out of oil and the valve train began to clatter. The rods never knocked and I am sure I could start it up right now if I wanted to take a chance. In your old engine I think an investment of $20 bucks in this stuff may help you save the engine for a simple rebuild should anything such as the oil pump should fail. Just a little word from a believer. Thanks in advance for any replies. Ralph nicastro Jr.
Ralph: The main thing is to avoid idling...no oil splashing on the cam and cylinder walls. It is a good idea to vary your speed occasionally when on the highway (the high vacuum when you close the throttle helps pull oil to the upper rings). Todays rings and bearings are near bullet proof if you keep the oil to them. I might be among a minority, but I don't like to pack the oil pump with any type of grease. I feel that it would be pumped to the oil filter when you start up, and I sure don't want that. I prime the pump with oil at assembly, then before I fire the engine I use a drill & dummy distributor shaft (forgive me, but a Chevy will work) to pressurize the whole engine, then install the distributor and go. This has worked great for 5 rebuilds, as well as my racing years. Hope this helps, Frank Power
Ralph, I just put oil in the pump before installing, then use the drill method to pre-oil the whole motor before starting. I usually do this with the valve covers off to see that the rockers are getting oil before starting. Doing it this way prevents a dry start, which is the worst thing for a new motor. As far as the heads, I don't see why you are having hardened seats installed. These motors were cast with a rather large amount on nickel content that I & many others feel it is unnecesary. I've been running & racing NailHeads for years with no valve recession problems with unleaded gas. Just my 2 Cts. Tom
Thanks guys Thanks guys, I will be doing my best to set up and start the engine on Saturday the 7th of december. Wish me luck and thanks for all of the help. You guys are great help
