[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]You can also use a 1974 Riviera grille in your 1973 model :TU:[/QUOTE] I think my original picture of CTC's '73's grille was indeed a '74
I did not see a 1974 Riviera grille in your posts, but it's different from the 1973 grille. The bars are vertical: The Riviera R logo (inspired by the logo from the Riviera hotel in Las Vegas, where the Riviera was introduced) should be located at the centre of the front of the car, but it's missing on your Riviera. In the photos I noticed that the logo is also missing from the centre of the rear bumper
It is pretty easy to repair those cracks but you will need to repaint it. Did you change and reset the gap and adjust the dwell for the points? Did you change the condensor in the distributor or turn the distributor? Have someone hold one spark plug wire close to the tip of a plug while the engine is being turned over and see if a spark jumps the gap. Then, tell us the results and we will move on from there.
CTC is (like always) asking too much money for their parts. US$ 295.00 for a damaged grille...ou: And on top of that, their shipping costs are unbelievable. (plus another US$ 75.00 to build a shipping crate) Or better: Use a spare spark plug, connect one of the plug wire to it and place it on the intake manifold. No risc of unpleasant electrical shocks that way, and you don't need a helper :TU: Or use a timing light.
http://stores.ebay.com/B-Rs-Old-Auto-Part-Sales?_rdc=1 Try this guy . He is in Wisconsin. A while back he was parting a few 71-73 Rivs. I bought quite a few items from him and everything was exactly as stated. Plus he was VERY resonable with his costs. Welcome aboard from another 73 Riviera owner. Also make sure you register it with the Boattail Registry. Contact is Rob. robs71redriv@yahoo.com The library has a lot of info. Service manuals , Fisher body manuals and a lot of interesting sales literature.
http://buick-libraries.boattail-riviera-by-buick.com/ check second ad - for a registry member who can get 73 grill from local junk yard for you -- i think you may of been talking to todd http://boattail-riviera-by-buick.com/registry/PartsSellerPublic/index.php?q=&category=1&fits[73]=1&doSearch=Search
What did I do now?! When we got the car, the battery was dead and wouldn't hold a charge, so I replaced it. The the starter sounded bad, so I replaced it. The car would then turn over but not fire up. I replaced the ignition coil (not necessary), the plugs and the wires. Now I can't get the car to turn over . Suggestions, please !! ---------- Post added at 02:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:39 PM ---------- If I didn't know better, I'd say it was the starter. Just get a clunk when I turn the key.
Dan or Gary, it's hard to tell from a distance, but my first thought is: Wrong (too long) spark plugs. Try to rotate the engine by hand with a socket on the crankshaft bolt. If it turns free, remove the new starter engine and compare it with the old one. If you can't turn the engine over, remove all spark plugs and try it again by using the starter engine.. If you still can't rotate the engine, remove the starter engine, and try to rotate the engine again by hand. When it runs free, it's not the right starter engine. But the trouble started after you changed the spark plugs, right?
Stupid questions, but here goes: the engine was turning over with the new battery and starter. It turned and turned, but just wouldn't fire up. I replaced the ignition coil, plugs and wires, and now it won't turn over again. Makes the dead single clunk as though the starter was bad again. i gapped the plugs at .40. But would bad/wrong plugs cause the engine to not turn anymore?
Erik, correct, this problem just started with the new plugs. We've had bad weather for the last month, so the car has been sitting outside without any attention. I'm concerned my new starter went bad.
Or the new battery already went dead..... You could try to start the car wit a pair of jumper leads :TU: Anyway, first check the plugs, rotate the engine by hand and tell us what happens. Was there a spark when you tried to start the engine? Check all plug wires with a timing light when the car is crancking over again. And disconnect the petrol line at the carburettor to check if the engine is getting fuel :TU: I think that's a typo, but just to make sure: it should be .040'' :bglasses:
Is this an HEI car? if not , Replace or at least clean and regap the points/condenser? fuel fouled plugs will keep it from starting also.
I think that's a typo, but just to make sure: it should be .040'' :bglasses:[/QUOTE] Sorry, that was a typo. .040 . i tried to jump the car. Got nothing but a little puff of smoke at the negative cable. Will check the gas line, but don't know if that would cause the car not to turn over. Will also try to move the crank by hand. the plugs are brand new. The old ones looked at though at least some were fouled, or on their way thereto. Again, though, I don't know how the car turned over with the old, fouled looking plugs and yet I get nothing with the new ones. i've done something to reverse the progress I was making. ---------- Post added at 04:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:45 PM ---------- I don't believe this is an HEI car. From what I've read here, that wasn't standard yet in the 1973 models, and it doesn't look to me like there was ever a conversion. I will look at the points/condenser. Thank you for the suggestion. Would either of those prevent the car from turning over, though? I understand they might prevent the car from running, but I can't even get it to turn over.
If the thread is too long, the pistons are touching the spark plugs. That's why I typed: And also: When you replaced the coil, did it have the shape of a RedBull can, and is there a short spark plug type wire running from it to the distributor? That's something you can do later, first get the engine to turn over again. Work with the steps in my other post:
okay, I compared the spark plugs. the old plugs are longer than the new ones. I haven't cranked the engine by hand yet, as it got too dark for me to see clearly. I'm trying to attach pictures of the plugs and coil, but am having technical problems.
I don't know if you can make those out, Erik. What might the problem be if the plugs are shorter than the old ones? the difference is millimeters, but it looks like the threads are longer on the old plugs, too. I got the new ones from a shop that claimed they were correct, but ...
It doesn't matter if the old ones are longer at the top, it looks like you can screw the newer plugs deeper into the cylinder head compared with the older ones:
