Preparing? Nope, bought some MT Drag Radials (275/50R-15), from Summit, when I was in Salem. They are mounted and ready to go. Got the Airbags in. Just thought these would be a nice finishing touch. i want to hook this car for once.
I believe the hardest part on mine was getting the upper bushings out of the housing while it was still in the car.
Larry, I used the South Side Machine Shop traction bars on my old Stage 1 car and it hooked VERY well. I think there's a few guys on here that use them... If you happen to track down a set, I think I read somewhere that you want the older style instead of the newer ones....I don't know, something about the bushings or something like that....not sure... As far as installation, they were somewhat of a hassle but I got them in... What I AM sure of is, if I was going to race ANY A-Body car ever again, I'm going to try and find a set of SSMS bars... Just my .02 cents.... :Brow:
Brett, I'm talking about the No-Hop bars that go between the axle and upper rear control arms. The SSM lift bars are more visible, not what I'm looking for. Thanks though.
Bummer to install on jackstands. The bushings are a b#&ch to change when you're upside down. If your going the T/A's there may be a little grinding on the housing too. Doable though!
Hi Larry, Sounds like you are on the same quest as most big block owners-traction.I hope that the no-hop bars do not affect handling as much as SSM lower bars.I had a set on my car but the handling went away big time.I took them off and sold them in Salem last week.I had the steel bushing type,not the poly bushing style.I am of the opinion that only a set of slicks will provide good traction.I am getting by with airbags,a 3.08 gear,a 4 degree retarded Hemi-Killer cam using low stall with street tires. It was great to meet you in Salem.Take care Rod
It goes much better if there are 2 guys doing the work. You can do about 75% of the job alone. The next 25% can go pretty slow. I replaced my housing bushings with the rear end removed from the car and it made that part easier. The only problem with removing the rear end from the car is that darn brake distribution fitting that is hard to get at and hard to seal back up once it has been disconnected. Bill is right, the bushings are a pain but I have a way to do them that takes a lot of work out of it. Mike D.
No Hop Bars. Larry;- I installed mine in my drive way, by myself. It's difficult, but I used a drill to help remove the bushings. With the upper disconnected it allows the rear to roll backwards a bit. I done one side at a time. I used a rope around the trans X member, and the rear end. Tie it tight, and put a big screw driver in it and twist. With the bottom control arms connected it will roll the rear towards the front and your upper bolts can be installed with your fingers. I like them, and they work. Harold. :TU:
Do you have to replace the bushings, or can you use the bushings that are there? Mine are in good shape.
the no-hop bars have a part that takes the place of the bushing in the rear end housing..wont be any bushing there at all after installation.
HI Larry HRpartsnstuff makes a bushing removal tool that works like a charm you can take a bushing in or out in minutes.i believe if you get on there website you can check it out.
An air chisel works well. Let it cut into the rubber of the bushing and then the outer shell. If you use the fishtail cutter it will work its way down the shell and relieve the bushing tension at the same time it is rattling it out. At the worst you will cut all the way through the shell and then you are home-free anyway. If you have almost new bushings it may not be so easy getting through the rubber. It worked well for me after fighting with them the first time I messed with the job.
An air chisel works well. Let it cut into the rubber of the bushing and then the outer shell. If you use the fishtail cutter it will work its way down the shell and relieve the bushing tension at the same time it is rattling it out. At the worst you will cut all the way through the shell and then you are home-free anyway. If you have almost new bushings it may not be so easy getting through the rubber. It worked well for me after fighting with them the first time I messed with the job. Oh, and if you unbolt the shocks it will pretty-much put the rear on the floor if the upper cntrol arms are unbolted already. I would consider springing for the HR partsn stuff adjustable uppers as I suspect the bars may throuw off your pinion angle (I think it did on mine anyway)
Larry, You sure you want to do this? It's like the first hit on a crackpipe, that first shot of heroin, the first white castle hamburger, the first carrot stick dipped in ranch dressing, the first time the front wheels show air!! Once you go there ---- you can never look back!! :bglasses:
Larry if you would like to borrow my tool for the bushings let me know it installs bushings with ease.send me your address and i will mail it to you it makes changing them a snap.
Nahhhh, I can handle it (famous last words :Brow: ) :laugh: I just want to launch this car for once and have it stick. I want to leave just off idle, and slap it to the boards, and not have to get out of it. Just once, and I'll be happy(yeah, right )