1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Ooooooppppppssss!

Discussion in 'The "Pure" Stockers' started by LON, Jul 24, 2005.

  1. LON

    LON Well-Known Member

    I was having problems with circulation back just before Carlisle. Replaced the thermy back then, it cycled twice then quit :puzzled:. Yesterday I flushed the radiator and block, got some gunk out, left the thermy in and tried it. Still didn't cycle :rant:. Took the thermy out and it was circulating great :TU: . Decided to try some mid-to-WOT throttle blasts (by hand, along side car) as I haven't had it there yet. The engine sounded good and strong but on the 3rd blip something went :shock:, don't really know what just yet as everything seems good and tight in the waterpump and clutch fan. My Spidey sense tells me to look at the motor mounts. It folded one blade almost 180*. Thankfully it's just a Modine replacement rad.
    This and having a bleeder strip out ended me going to the cruise today. Could of been worse.
    Lon
    OO====OO

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  2. hodgesgi

    hodgesgi Well-Known Member

    Lon, at Englishtown last year, I kept having trouble with my water pump housing leaking. On the 3rd time out, after tightening the bolts and refilling the radiator again, it finally happened. The water pump actually split into 2 separate pieces, a front half, which traveled with the clutch fan through my radiator, and a back half, which remained attached to the water pump housing. In my effort to remain "stock appearing", I had kept my original style 7 blade clutch fan assembly on the car. BAD, REAL DUMB, STUPID idea!!!!! Get the Mopar Performance 5 blade replacement. When that clutch assembly fails and goes into direct drive mode, the results really stink.

    The only good thing about that whole episode, was that I shaved off 18lbs. with my replacement aluminum radiator. :laugh: I also shaved several hundred $$ out of my wallet to re-learn a lesson. :rant:
     

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