I can truly say we have better results with cheaper clear than the expensive clear. Actually less die back, better texture, less runs, buffs really well when needed. We use R-M, and their clear runs about $65 + for a sprayable quart. But the U-Tech 4.0 clear is less than $25 /sprayable quart, so we try to use it when we can. The cheaper stuff is much more forgiving, less lifting problems, etc. The cheaper clear is usually a little more yellow, so we don't use it on silvers or whites. But we have used it for over 10 years, never a come back. Most shops try to push the expensive clears, and maybe they have good luck with them. So PPG or Dupont could easily run $2K plus on a big complete. If I ever finish my 72 Stage 1 conv., I would not hesitate to use a cheaper line primer, sealer, b/c and clear.
I spent nearly $10000 cdn to paint my '72 gs in 2009. I removed all the parts and pieces, interior & exterior. that way no pieces got "lost" at the bodyshop. there were some sheetmetal repairs - rear window corners, cowl, a fender and a door. When the paint job was completed the results were fabulous!! worth every $$ spent.
If you were closer i would be interested in taking the job on. For reference though i just painted my 65 Skylark pearl white after stripping the car to metal, doing rust repair and replacing some panels and trim. I have over $2k in paint supplies and another $1k in other body parts/trim. IMO the car when finished will be a nice driver and i would not be afraid to show it in most shows. But i also had a limit to the work and money i wanted to invest in this car. IMO one should evaluate the condition of the car, its overall value when finished and how much they are willing to lose. Rarely does anyone come ahead on a restoration when comparing the value of the car to cost of restoration. As of right now i have a 65 2 door post Skylark, solid body, very little plastic, fresh paint, low mileage engine, fair interior right now, it is not numbers matching, had been wrecked at some time, not original driveline but runs great, looks great and is dependable for around $8k total. I could have easily put another couple hundred hours in body work and paint work, but this still does not raise the value of the car, i feel i reached my limit to the bodywork the car should get for its value. I will finish upgrading the interior for comfort and i will play with the driveline for more power and gas mileage, but even then i have a limit to that. Some people laugh but i have what i call a work to pleasure ratio. When the work exceeds the pleasure ratio than it is time to stop or at least valuate the outcome for its worth. This car took too long IMO to get where it is and i was beginning to get frustrated by the work to pleasure ratio. But now i am driving it, enjoying it and now look forward to puttering some more on it. This ratio i have is the reason why i left the offroading scene. There were times i dropped $3k to wheel an hour and then go home broke only to try to figure out the next big expenditure and work many hours more. In the end i had a trashed truck with little value. $50k for paint?? Better be quality enough for Pebble Beach IMO. Price will vary by condition of car, type of restoration you want, quality of paint work, etc. Of course shop labor prices will vary too.
Stripping and prep is what takes the most time and money. For over 10 years, I couldn't find a shop in the Bay Area who would even look at my car, let alone do the job. My vehicle spent almost 2 full years in a Sacramento shop before it looked like it looks now. The painting was the easy part. The stripping, bodywork, and re-chroming is what took a lot of time. If you strip the car yourself, and did zero bodywork, then $5k would cover the paint. Realistically, as others have stated, look for at least $10k at a decent shop to get the car looking right.
You have discovered one of many reasons auto restoration has become a tough pill to swallow unless you can do alot of work yourself. You'd be looking at $20k IMO for a quality turn key job. Lots of opinions because there are lots of variables. I know where the 66s rust and can tell there will be moderate rust repair needed in many locations once the paint is stripped. Some cars just aren't worth investing that kind of money in unless its for sentimental reasons. Also very important, your car will be tied up for months maybe years in the shop and bad things can and do happen if a job drags out a long time. Some people never get there car back finished. Taking a car to a body shop sucks for lack of a better word and is responsible for the highest number of horror stories from people who have cars restored. You are at their mercy and promises from the shop carry as much weight as that of a politician. Sure there are a few good ones but they are few and far between. If it were mine I'd have some spot repairs done in the worst areas and drive and enjoy the car. White is your best friend when it comes to spot repairs. If you get anzi and want a really nice 66 Riv, you can buy an outstanding example in both mechaincs and body/paint for $20k without all the hassale.
Many people tend to avoid car painting at home because of excessive cost and the degree of prep-work involved. Though most people might take such things for granted, a ton of work goes into making car paint including car paint screening. Automakers test car paint and ensure that it can stand up to the punishment the elements deal out and do not even charge individuals for it. Article source: Car Paint Testing.
Painting your car is a time-consuming job. Before doing it, you have to do a bit of research to guide you on how to achieve the best look that you want. Before you put a paint on the vehicle, it has undergo a ton of testing first. It contains exposing tones of paint to years of brutal climate conditions to see if it can stand up. Learn more: Car Paint Testing.
