Since the car is apart and it all needs paint, I'm not sure which way to go: Paint the jams, hidden areas, inside of the fenders, etc, and then put it all back together and paint it? OR Paint the doors, front quarters, hood, trunk lid and then put it back together? I know the obvious, if it's together, there could be issues with matching seams, over spray, adhersion with the base/clear and if it's apart I run the risk of scratching it before it's even together and possible mismatch paint on the panels. Am I missing anything, I've see it done both ways. Thanks
Back in the day the advantage of painting it apart was to lay the large sides flat to get the best flow and slickest paint. Front fenders and doors could be laid on saw horses and painted horizontal. But as you point out, then you have to be really careful in handling and assenbly. For less then a concourse car I'm not sure its worth the extra aggravation. Modern 2 stage paints give the best gloss ever so how much do you gain? I'd go with painting it together. - Bill
Rich a big problem with painting a car in pieces is that today's paints can have a change in appearance just from a change in air pressure. I paint my commercial account cars apart getting all the back sides and "hidden" areas first then assemble the car and paint the exterior at one time. My personal cars I paint apart in the shop at one time. I lay out all the parts like an exploded view of the car. Example is the fender on a stand oriented the same as if on the car in front of the door and so on. I hate to tape cars and also hate the occasional tape line after a job. The biggest issue again is how the metalic's lay when applied. Most times if you paint a panel flat that will be vertical when installed it will appear to be a different shade next to the vertical fixed panel.( example door to 1/4) Hope this helpso No:
As an addendum to this question, since mine is all apart, I was planning on painting the jams and hidden areas myself and then assembling the car and having somebody that really knows how to paint do the body. If using a base/clear system, do I do both the base and then the clear coat on the jams or just the base and let them clear it all at the same time? Also, obviously I will tell them the paint I used in order for them to use the same exact brand but it may be 6 months between my jamming it and having it all together for paint too. Will that be a problem? I figure if there are minor problems with the door jams, I don't care so much as having a crappy coat on the side of the car. Thanks Jon
You'll have to clear it or time it perfectly. Most base coats require a clear within 24 hours, or it will not bond. This is part of the problem of doing the Jams, then it needs to be taped off when sprayed, then you could have a tape line.
Jon before you paint your pieces find a shop that you will be using for the completion of the paint work. Talk with them and find out what paint they will use for your car and then use the same paint. When I work with a customer with this scenario I have them apply all their exterior primer block out the car and then apply 2 final coats of primer to the exterior of the car. Then I have them take the panels off so they can do the jams. I have them blow the paint out about 6 inches without the use of tape(so there are no tape lines). I then have them reassemble the car. I usually do the final alignment of the panels. I then final block and wet sand the car prior to final application of paint system. Side note use a primer that can also be used as a sealer. That way if they do not cut through the primer, the car need not be sealed again prior to paint.
Clear your paint work, as with new paints the base is not always waterproof and usually no UV protection. When "your" clearcoat is dry it can be used as a paint-able base once sanded to 600grit wet paper.
Most any professional painter will NOT paint over any of your work. I tried this myself and no one will paint the car even primer would have to be removed before they would paint it. The problem arises when the painter has to stand behind the work and if you had to guarantee a paint job that costs 5 to 10k would you trust someone's prep done in their garage? While it seems unfair to have to pay them for something you could do I would find a good painter and let him or her do the job. I find that word of mouth is the best. I got info from owners that had cars painted and went to see the work some were done 3 to 5 years ago. this can be an indicator of the quality of work
I guess the point is to avoid paying $10k for a paint job. Doing rust repairs and initial body work myself is a goal to get the pricing down to where I am really paying for a couple block sandings and the final spray. I would think that upon the initial blocking of the car, the shop I take it to would say something along the lines of "this looks like a sack of doorknobs" and then estimates for straightening begin.
Many shops are more willing to work with you at the moment due to the lack of work in their shops. Just be prepared to sign a contract agreement that they are not responsible for "any" issues that arise once the car leaves their shop. We used to rent our booth out to guys on the weekend and our painter could even be bought to help the customer apply the paint:grin: Curtis I am looking forward to the move ... trust me
How do you guys feel about doing the jambs with a single-stage paint to get good coverage, then (months) later, sanding it and applying base/clear the same time the exterior gets done? The advantage would be the jambs will then only need a light coat of base to get the color to match, and if you miss some deep hidden areas, you'll at least have color there. The clear should blend it all in nicely. I'm guessing a cured/sanded single-stage paint will provide a solid foundation for base/clear topcoats. Opinions?
Walt what you suggest does work and I have seen it done. My thought is that you are doing the work twice. With all the shape/contours of the jams you may not be able to get into the tight areas of the jams to sand the single stage 100%. I would be afraid of missing a spot and then having the paint lift or crack were I missed sanding/prepping. If you base and clear the jams like you are doing a show job you won't have to address them again. For any of you that paint with some frequency you already know that the "jams and hidden ares" will finish like glass and you have to sand and polish all the restuzzled::laugh:
This is why I like lacquer. Doesn't really need a clear coat, and if you jamb it, then do the rest even many years later, it looks good. Who is going to look at your door jambs and ding you for the alleged color variation? Maybe at a concours, but I don't think even that would hold water, given that the jambs are out of the light most of the time and will fade differently, anyway. To answer the original question, my personal preference would be to take the car apart and do it right. But I'm a skinflint, and furthermore, I don't have the time or space to do that. Also, if the lacquer job does end up with overspray in the jambs, you can polish so that it never shows, at least with non-metallic. I've done it before. ---------- Post added at 07:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ---------- Italics mine. Ain't that the troof.
Good point about the metallics. They are very different and do best with the car together for the reasons you mention. I do the car together and fog the last coat when doing metallics. I understand that with the waterborne stuff you may need to do the last coat in a cross pattern (turned 90 degrees) if its metallic paint. Its one of those areas where a beginner should practice before doing the actual car! - Bill
From a guy that makes a living painting cars.Even when I worked in production shops and it was a two tone I have always painted them apart weather they were all pearl or candy or whatever and then just put them together after sufficient time to cure and if you end up having to spot something in your still going to turn out better in the long run. In your case I would suggest putting it together as you do the body work and get your gaps and everything swinging blocked and ready to paint than take it down and paint it,even if you bang it up a little it will still turn out better if you have to refinish some of it .hope this helps
