ok guys. im sure its been asked here before, but a search only brought up bits and pieces of the proccess. i have the body almost completely stripped of paint. now what? let me know if the following is the correct order... 1. strip paint 2. neutralize chemical stripper 3. apply fresh seam sealer and sand? 4. fill in trim and emblem holes with body solder or filler? 5. hi build primer/sealer? 6. skimcoat filler 7. block sand 8. primer 9. paint?? if im completely wrong, keep in mind iv never done this before ou: just trying to save a buck or two... :Smarty: pete
Therer are many books and videos out there to assist you in doing it yourself . get on the internet and google auto painting
1. STRIP PAINT 2..NEUTRALIZE 3. SAND 220 ON A DA. BY HAND WET DRY ANYWAY YOU NEED TO. GET OFF ALL PAINT EVERYLAST BIT OR FEATHER EDGE IT IF ITS NOT BAD. WASH THE CAR DOWN IN THE SUN WITH DISH SOAP. DRY IT OFF BLOW IT ALL OUT OF EVERY INCH 4.PRIME THE ENTIRE CAR SELF ETCHING. OR IT WILL RUST FROM THE MORNING DEW AND HUMIDITY. FIRST COAT OF PRIME KEEPS THE BODY PROTECTED WHILE YOUR WORKING. FEEL FREE TO GRIND SAND ETC. BUT REPRIME ANY BARE METAL AFTER YOUR DONE 5. EVALUATE THE CAR NOW MARK WHAT YOU WANT FIXED WITH A MARKER. START ON ONE PANEL PERFECT IT THEN MOVE TO NEXT ONE. 6.RUST? CUT IT OUT,SAND BLAST IT OR IT WILL BE BACK! AFTER ALL RUST IS GONE PUT IN SEAM SEALER WHERE YOU NEED THIS CAN BE DONE ANYIME 7. FILL HOLES WITH WELD, BRAZE NOT PLASTIC!! 8. DO FILLER IF NEEDED.ALL BODY WORK DONE? SAND WITH 400 WET, CLEAN REPRIME WITH EPOXY PRIMER FOR DURABLE FINISH 9.SAND WITH 400-800 WET FIND ANY IMPERFECTIONS SPOT PUTTY IF YOU NEED TO. 10. PAINT THIS IS A 10 STEP LIST ANYONE WHO WORKS ON CARS COULD MAKE THIS A 400 STEP LIST. IF YOUR DOINF JAMS YOU HAVE TO ADD THAT IN.THERE IS NO SET WAY TO DO THIS EVERY CAR AND SITUATION IS DIFFERENT. IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE GET A BOOK OR HOW TO VIDEO. ITS NOT EASY THATS WHY RESTO SHOPS GET BIG MONEY ALL THE SWEAT I PUT IN MY CAR WOULD HAVE COST ME THOUSANDS. DONT THINK ITS FAST EITHER I TOOK A YEAR AND A HALF STILL NOT DONE.......
i agree with the new guy,obnoxious text & all:laugh: buy a book,i will post the title in the morning if you care?:beer
the problem with lead solder,is you HAVE to know what your doing or you warp the metal.its not that hard,but practice first.most people melt the solder first,it wont flow well that way,you end up with a glob of ****uzzled: you have to heat the metal,without warping it.lead is becoming a lost art:rant:
After ALL the old paint & primer is off & the paint stripper has been neutralized & panels scuffed, I'd etch the panels one at a time with the usual phosphoric acid solution and then topcoat with a good catylized epoxy primer. This is the base coat you want for all other work, including seam sealer and body filler. PPG's DP-40 is my old standby epoxy primer and is what I used on my Wildcat, photo in signature. There's lots of filler in the quarters, but it's all on top of the epoxy primer. Still smooth as glass after a fifteen year old paint job. I have panels in storage today that where dipped for chemical rust removal & paint strip back in 1986. Upon receipt I washed off the temporary rust preventative and etched with acid. Once clean and dry I hit them with DP-40, including flooding the seams and pinch welds undil they dripped. Those parts are still unpainted today and rust-free. My warning to you about epoxy primers and other two-step paint systems - you need to take proper precautions against being exposed to the isocyanates in the hardeners. They can be killers. Devon
thanks for the replies guys. iv taken it to step three so far. i believe thats as far as ill go and let the professionals take it from there :grin: i figured id rather have someone do it right the first time, then to do it myself only to find out they have to do it all over again because i goofed. im going to be as much of a part to the job as i can, and they will allow, so i can learn a thing or two. pete
Good job Pete - you saved alot of money stripping it yourself. If you go to a pro I recommend that you make sure they neutralize the stripper chemicals. Even better do it yourself before you take it....its not that hard and what was said above is good advice. That way you can be sure it was done. If they skip that step or do it half way then the paint will fail from the stripper coming to the surface. - Bill
THANKS FOR THE COMPLIMENT I WISH IT WAS... BUT ITS ONLY A CLONE. MUST LOOK GOOD I WAS CONTACTED BY THE GUY FROM THE GSX REGISTRY TO PUT IT IN....LOL. IM LOOKING FOR GS GRILL STUDS I WAS GIVEN A CONTACT FROM THE PARTS WANTED I HAVE TO FOLLOW UP ON. KEEP US UPDATED WITH YOUR CAR PETE I LIKE THE PAINT SCHEME YOU PICKED LOOKS GOOD.
hey all. so all the paint is stripped now. any tips on how to get rid of the body filler and seam sealer?
