Painting in winter

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by cadmanzx, Nov 27, 2004.

  1. cadmanzx

    cadmanzx Master Yachtsman

    I'm considering painting one or two this winter. The garage is not heated, and I'm not sure the safest way to heat it. I'm thinking of using acrylic enamel sprayed the HVLP way. How cold is too cold? Are there any tips/tricks or non "go kaboom" ways to do this? Thanks to any and all.
     
  2. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    That topic is currently being discussed here:
    http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/bbs2/webbbs_config.pl?read=17909

    Some ideas were:
    Run heat between coats, but only after venting the spray area.
    Heat lamps.
    Wait till Spring.

    I think the optimum setup would be to have a heated floor...
    Next would be another form of radiant heat, or IR (Infra-Red)heat.

    I'm currently installing an oil fired hot air system in my garage. I'll have the hot air blowing in one end, and exhausting to outside at the other end (using another fan). Intake air for the furnace will come from outside, and burner will be located outside the spray area, maybe in an attached shed. The biggest drawback to this method, is I'll be heating colder outside air, and not warmer recirculated air...
    If that doesn't work, I'll have to wait 'till Spring! :Do No:

    Oh, and for small parts.... I powdercoat. Great method for wintertime!
     
  3. Andrew Skidmore

    Andrew Skidmore Well-Known Member

    He is right, heat is a source needed to have a decent paint job stick on the metal. I have been painting cars for around 6 years for a local body shop, and we paint right at around the mid 70's. Obviously air circulation is critical in this process, and whatever dust you can keep out of the paint area by setting up some plastic hanging from your ceiling in your garage would be great. Just remember to keep the air circulating, keep as much dust out as possible, and for the most part make sure your flash times between coats of paint, and then to clear coat are correct, other wise that would create you some problems.
     
  4. cpk 71

    cpk 71 im just a number

    My advice is not to paint in the winter at all,to have the paint dry and cure between coats you want a constant temp turning heat on and off wont cut it. But if you have to use the slowest reducer and try and keep the heat constant temp preferably a radiant heat as described before to keep the air as still as possible so you dont stir up a bunch of dirt.
     
  5. cadmanzx

    cadmanzx Master Yachtsman

    That's some good info guys thanks. I was thinking of using one of those 10x20 portable canopy/shelter things inside the building. It's big, about 6 bays. I just want to find a good heat source that won't burn, melt or explode that doesn't cost a lot to install.
     
  6. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Wish I had a good solution!
    A drawback to IR heaters is they only heat surfaces that are in 'line of sight' of the heater. Kind of like a light bulb.....the 'shadowed' side won't get effictively heated. .....This is based on theory, not experience, so correct me if I'm wrong!

    If you could construct a sealed 'paint booth' inside your shop (2x4's and plastic), you could blow in filtered warm air, even during painting, as long as you have another opening to 'exhaust' the fumes. Key is to have enough air movement to remove fumes.....
    The autobodystore.com site did have plans for building your own booth...

    Anybody know how a real paint booth operates???....time for a Google search!
     
  7. Andrew Skidmore

    Andrew Skidmore Well-Known Member

    There are a few different kind of paint booths in today's market. The most popular of all is really not possible for the at home painter because it is called the down draft system. There is a grate in the middle of the floor that has water in it, and the air gets sucked down into it which removes the chemicals from the air. But since this is not possible at home some of these guys are pointing you in the right direction, because having adequate ventilation, and air flow is critical. Finding some way to enclose the area you are spraying in to create its own environment, like the hanging of plastic from your cieling, and using some fans to pull in air from one direction, and using another as an exaust to rid of the fumes. A good way to get some heat in there that is somewhat consitant which I have found worthy is using a kerosine heater. I have one that sits a few feet off of the ground and has many settings to change temperature. This heater works great and I have had my entire 6 car garage heated from it. Bought it a few years back for a few hundred dollars. This thing works great in the winter around here so I can work in the garage.
     

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