Poll: should I continue use of dexcool in 2000 GS regal?

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by evil16v, Dec 3, 2003.

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Should I continue to use dexcool in a 2000 GS?

Poll closed Dec 7, 2003.
  1. Flush system thouroughly, Fill with traditional coolant on regular basis

    9 vote(s)
    64.3%
  2. Flush system thouroughly, Fill with Dexcool on a regular basis.

    4 vote(s)
    28.6%
  3. Flush system thouroghly, Fill with alternative coolant.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. I don't know.

    1 vote(s)
    7.1%
  1. GSXMEN

    GSXMEN Got Jesus?

    Re: Re: Re: Re: Oh, yeah

    Supposedly, if you get all the oil out, you just need to add the 8oz. of SC oil. I believe it would take a little more to get up to the bottom of the threads....don't think it will hurt anything to fill it that high though.
     
  2. The Chad

    The Chad Member

    The oil level in the supercharger should be to the bottom of the threads to the fill hole.
    Dex-cool is kind of a gamble, if there isn't any leaks allowing oxygen into the cooling system it's great stuff, but here in the real world where even a slightly leaking radiator cap allows oxygen (notice the orange crust around the gasket on your radiator cap?) into the cooling system. The dex-cool turns into a nasty jello muddy goo over time. The best bet is to COMPLETELY flush the cooling system and fill with the old fashioned, low tech, tried and true green stuff.
     
  3. gsgns4me

    gsgns4me Well-Known Member

    Re: Re: Oh, yeah

    From the service manual:


    Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations
    Usage
    Fluid/Lubricant

    Automatic Transaxle
    DEXRON-III Automatic Transaxle Fluid

    Engine Coolant
    50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or Havoline DEX-COOL (silicate-free) coolant

    Engine Oil
    Engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines Starburst symbol of the proper viscosity. For information on the proper oil viscosity Refer to Explanation of Scheduled Services

    Engine Oil (Export)
    In areas of the world other than North America, it may be difficult to find oils that display the API STARBURST, look for oils that meet the API Service SJ and ACEA requirements. For information on the proper oil viscosity, refer to Engine Oil Quality and Viscosity (Export) under Explanation of Scheduled Services .

    Hood Latch Assembly, Secondary Latch, Pivots, Spring Anchor and Resease Pawl
    Lubriplate Lubricant Aerosol (GM P/N 12346293 or equivalent) or a lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI #2, Cataegory LB or GC-LB

    Hood and Door Hinges
    Multi-Purpose Lubricant, Superlube (GM P/N 12346241 or equivalent)

    Hydraulic Brake System
    Delco Supreme 11 Brake Fluid (GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid)

    Key Lock Cylinders
    Multi-Purpose Lubricant, Superlube (GM P/N 12346241 or equivalent)

    Power Steering System
    GM Power Steering Fluid (GM P/N 1052884 - 1 pint or 1050017 - 1 quart, or equivalent)

    Supercharger Oil
    Supercharger Oil (GM P/N 12345982)

    Weatherstrip Conditioning
    Dielectric Silicone Grease (GM P/N 12345579 or equivalent)

    Windshield Washer Solvent
    GM Optikleen Washer Solvent (GM P/N 1051515) or eqiuvalent


    I'll do some checking on service intreval for the supercharger, but I think GM considered it a non-service item because of the synthetic oil. Guess they thought you'd get rid of the car before it needed any attention.
     
  4. gsgns4me

    gsgns4me Well-Known Member

    Nope, can't find any...

    Don't see a service intreval in the service manual. All I see is this for every 30,000 miles or 36 months;

    50 000 km (30,000 Miles)
    Replace the passenger compartment air filter.
    Rotate the tires. +
    Replace the air cleaner filter. This is an emission control service.
    For supercharged engines only: Check the supercharger oil level and add oil as needed (or every 36 months, whichever occurs first). This is an emission control service. +

    It's better to check the supercharger oil level every oil change, in my opinion. Cheap insurance for just removing a plug and looking in a hole.
     
  5. Oil:
     

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  6. evil16v

    evil16v Midwest Buick Mafia

    :TU:
     
  7. TuBBeD

    TuBBeD Well-Known Member

    I just had my intake gaskets and brass coolant fitting on top of the intake replaced because of Dexcool. This was in a '98 GMC with a 454 and 64,000 miles. I would put it back in since it came originally, but I would change it every year. Being the car is 4 years old, changing it to the green stuff might bring on more problems than what the Dexcool might bring itself.
     
  8. evil16v

    evil16v Midwest Buick Mafia

    somewhat long post -- results

    Well I've decided that the dexcool should come out... but not now.I f they are going to have a problem with it, I'd rather it be in the spring and not in the middle of the winter. I still must make a call to GM and make damn sure this will not void the extended GM warranty. Seveeral of you have told me it wouldn't, but I want it first hand.

    SO, today I went for the flush (prestone and garden hose method). I examined water neck, radiator fill neck and resvoir for sludge and or crystalization. None found.:grin: Every thing was pretty clean... But does not impress me, as I change antifreeze regularly on all of my vehicles. I drained the dexcool and flushed with water until clear(this took awhile) darined again and filled with prestone flush and water. let run almost 20 minutes(instructions say ten). Dumped the flush only to a VERY red water emerge from the drain. HMMM...... must have been some residue forming in a few areas. rinse and ran like 3 times. now clear. dumped in a gallon of prestone high mileage. added some water and fired it up. added more water until i hit 35*F on my test bulb. ther on filled with a hair stonger than 50/50. came out to be about -40. bed and bled and bled. should be free of air and resvoir about 4" over full(hot--had another 4" to go in resvoir).

    I had decided to replace the thermostat while I had the neck off with one I had bought at O'rielly's. They said Stant had been bought out by Murray. :puzzled: I asked them if they were sure ---- oh yea ... oh yea... whatever. Tried to install it and I noticed it is missing a ball bearing check valve, the opening in the stat is smaller, and the the rubber taper seal was too short to for the water neck to apply presure, and expand to seal the neck.

    Here is a pic of the original which I put back in (in good shape I think) -- can any body tell me what the check valve is there for? I figure it is there for a reason. Notice the offset of the mech in the plate. It is offset to make room for the check valve. The valve is about 10 o'clock in this pic.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. buickman70

    buickman70 I pirated this pic!!!

    My shi++y 99' Z-71 (torqueless 5.3) still has the original orange crap in it and I havent had any problems with the cooling system yet (about the only thing that hasn't) (knock on wood). I think I will replace it with new orange crap.
     
  10. The Chad

    The Chad Member

    The check valve is there to bleed any air that is trapped under thermostat.
     
  11. evil16v

    evil16v Midwest Buick Mafia

    Thanks for all the info guys!!!
     

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