I broke down and spent the rediculous $600 that poston charges for that girdled oil pan. They tell you how great their pan is, but there are a few things they dont tell you. 1) you may have to shave down the ears on your motormounts (I did) to get hose clearance. 2) you will have to go with a smaller starter ( I used a Tilton) becuase the stock one doesn't fit. 3) the caps that preload against the main studs leak These are all things that when I called Poston, they said that no one else had ever had these problems, but I have no idea how they could NOT have. Im not trying to bash anyone's products, but you all may want to consider these problems before buying.:af:
This sounds like the same things that happened to me (not with their oil pan but with other products) which is why I refuse to go anywhere near those guys. -Bob Cunningham
Bad experience here as well, with Poston alum valve covers. Terrible quality, very badly warped sealing surfaces. Won't buy their stuff again. TA Perf only.
Poston is evil It's funny, every part I bought from Poston and Kenne-bell, I had massive problems with. When I'd call to inquire they'd blame the manufacturer of the other products on the car. I bought 95% of the parts at T/A Performance. I wish it was 100%, I never had one problem with anything I got from them, and their tech support people are the best. They have even helped me out with problems that have noting to do with things they sell. I will never buy from anyone else ever again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! TA KICKS ASS
Did not know if you knew this but Jim Poston sold the biz. So, maybe someone/new owner is cutting corners?
Is this true, I am very close to buying a poston pan but now I'm hesitating. Has anyone else had this problem or was this just a one time fluke. Please advise me before I drop my cash. Allen
Consensus is that if you are below 550-575 hp, you will be fine with stock block. Once you go above that, get the TA girdle. If you ask or look at serious racers w/455 all have TA girdles.
I had a problem once, the article said that a 625 carter afb carb would provide exceptional fuel economy when used on stock 455-430-400 engines. So I bought one, the engine started to over heat really bad boilling out of the radiator at every stop light, I replaced the radiator with a 4 core one still over heated I bought their aluminum intake manifold still over heated I pulled the engine out took it to a shop they said they could not find anything wrong with it that cost me $1200.00 and all the time asking anybody or any shop if it could be the carb they said "no" except one shop said 750 min. carb cause the motor needs air to breath and the 625 was starving it. So I replaced the carb with my older Quad and the over heating went away!! So I call the company to complain about my problem and all JIM POSTON could say that he was sorry and it works great on small block buicks, even though I told him about his own artical!!
small carb Not sure why that would make your car overheat. I had a much smaller carb on my 455 for fuel economy and it never overheated. Right now i have on a holley 750 but disconnected the secondaries and have been driving it like that for years with out overheating problems. As a matter of fact I have cardboard in front of radiator just to get a decent amount of heat. Thermostat is a 180 and radiator is a 4 core. Allen
Problem is .. Lean cruise (part throttle) fuel metering.. real common problem on this carb.. An AFB is rich at idle, and gets progressivly leaner the more you get into the primary circuit. Every other carb we have ever tested is exactly the opposite.. lean at idle, and richer the more you open up the throttle in a part throttle situation, in the primaries. I have also seen this on other carbs, when the wrong primary metering jets/rods are installed. When we dyno a motor, we do a "cruise test", if it is going to see street duty. That test involves checking the fuel metering at 30 HP, 60 HP and 90 HP, which is roughtly the amount throttle opening to go 30,60, and 90 mph.. It is designed to check the fuel metering at 3 different levels of primary throttle opening, and will show problems in primary circuit metering.. JW
I bought a barry grant 850 for my car, and when I was installing it, I got a little overzealous and stripped the inlet. I called them and they said, no problem, just send it back, and they'll fix it for free. While they had it, they called me up and said that it was a "down leg" set up, and that for optimum performance they recomend that I switch it to a "annular" set up. Can anyone tell me what the hell they are talking about, and if they are right? Thanks, Robert
They are reffering to the booster venturies in the carb. I would leave the downleg boosters in the carb. The annulars help with mid range power on engines with low port velocity, not a problem on the Buick. They are more used to chvy motors than Buick motors. Jim Burek P.A.E Enterprises
Holy crap your not joking. I bought them thinking they would end my problems... yeah right. They would rock on a flat surface. I wound up taking about .030 off one, and .026 off the other. Thats quality if I've ever seen it.....ou:
I have to say I only dealt with Postons whe one time but I was very impressed. I got great advice and fast shipping (2 days to Nottingham, England) and they even got me some parts they didn't stock which I couldn't get here (I think they sent someone round to the local parts store LOL) I guess that was 3 years back.
