I'm a new guy on here so don't have much credibility. I build drag cars and have a small fab shop. Almost everything Gm we do has a Powerglide.I don't beleive all the fancy internal parts are always required but they do offer some peace of mind. As far as putting them on other Gm engines we do our own adapters. A motor plate between the motor trans is used and sometimes used as mid- mounts . All Gm motors(well not the real old ones) use the same dowel pin to crankshaft spacing. This means you are do not have to worry about the alignment of the crankshaft to the input of the trans. WE bolt the plate to the block first,then bolt the trans to the plate. It takes some thinking as some bolts need to be countersunk on some applications,but we have done it several times.AS far as the powerglide goes ,in my opinion a GOOD convertor is required. A car car run decent with a cheap convertor and a t-400 but a powerglide needs the stall and torque multiplication of a GOOD convertor. Just my opinion .Thanks Joe
Thanks Joe I am Looking at going to a PowerGlide in a 3650 Buick with a 455 I have a Midplate that I made that was on the dowels of the Block and a T-400 Bolted Behind it. I do not no that much about Powerglides. I am not shure what we need for Parts to make a Glide hold up. I have some 1.76 geared builder cores. Any Help would be grate I am shure others would like to no as well. Give me a call if you have some time 720-217-7859 Thanks Jeff
When I worked at a dealership, one of the body shop guys decided to run a Powerglide trans with no torque convertor in his circle track car. When he had me rebuild it, I turned the aluminum piston down on the brake lathe enough to add an extra clutch and steel to the drum. He really liked this set-up in his car.
I think in a street type car with 500 h.p. the stock components will work fine. If you decide to use a brake or have a ton of h.p. then an input shaft ,and maybe cut the drum for another clutch. If you get a chance to compare the1.76 against the 1.82 you will see the difference in how the gears are retained. the 1.76 has a cast steel type housing and the 1.82 is a stamped steel piece. I have taken and put a retainer ring ,welded on the outside of the 1.82 for reinforcement but I don't particularly say it's a great deal.The input shaft is about 1/2 inch different in lenght but I can't remember off hand which is which.This is helpful when purchasing one. We ran a 2850 lb car with 550 h.p. at 9.80's with a brake for 400 pass's with only fluid and band adjustments. It had all stock pieces except for input shaft and valve body. My 81 Buick wagon with a 425-430 h.p. 406 chebby ran hundreds of pass's without a brake or any maintenance at all.It ran 12 flats. Just like anything else keep it clean ,cool and well lubricated and they will last a long time. One other thing ,and if I come across as a smart ass please excuse me,the one problem I see on glide installation is the overtightening of the cooler line adapters. They are pipe (tapered) thread and if you really try to tighten them you will crack the aluminum trans housing and it's pretty much junk.Put them in with a LITTLE pipe dope and let it set overnight. When installing the lines hold the adapters with a wrench so as not to break them loose. Best of luck.
I am also thinking about a Powerglide for a circle track 350 Buick. Which is the best for strength, price and availability: The BOP powerglide or the JW Bell with BOP pattern? Thanks.
