Alright, who has one already done that can explain how good it is, what's the recommended compression ratio, blow through, or can we use the FI Tech fuel injection? Let's discuss what's required for say.....800 rwhp.
Interesting discussion. Personally I would go with 8.5 or 9 to 1 compression. Get the base engine to produce 400 or better hp. Then 10 psi should get to close. I don’t think the Fitech is capable of 800 . I think it’s 600 N.A./ 550 boosted. Injector size and fuel pressure I believe is limiting the potential. But they may have a bigger unit. Would like to know where to Pulleys and brackets .
Here is a good read about someone that did that; http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/the-dyno-numbers-are-in.200499/ You can call these guys for any questions you may have, they are the ones that built the supercharged sbb 370 in the above link; http://www.finishlinemotorsports.com/ They may even be able to set you up with the sbb specific brackets to mount one or even a complete kit?, I believe they made their own brackets for their 370 build. For 800 RWHP you may want to step up to a billet crank, unless you want to find the limit of a factory cast crank? 800 @ the rear wheels can be well over 1,000 HP @ the crank! That's a bunch of HP! With a billet crank you can order the stroke you want, I would get a 4.200" stroke and use a shorter rod with the 1.850" rod journals. Probably would go with a 6.200" to no longer than 6.300" rod to get extra cam clearance because the shorter the rod the more it will swing away from the centerline when it is 90* from top and bottom dead center which takes it further away from the cam, like what the General did with the sbc 400.(all factory sbc engines came from the factory with 5.70" rods except the sbc 400 which had 5.565" long rods. Why you ask? Because they wanted more cam clearance with the longer stroke.) With a 6.300" rod and a 4.200" stroke you would have a rod to stroke ratio of 1.5:1, I personally don't like to go much less than that 1.5:1 ratio, the sbc 400 had a 1.484:1 from the factory. I would also get a roller cam with a reduced base circle with that kind of stroke for a bit of extra cam clearance right out of the gate. If you can find a good thick block with minimal core shift that will take a .100" overbore to like 3.905"(for a good off the shelf ring size) you can have a sbb that is 402.411 CID with a billet crank that has a 4.200" stroke!!! Or if you went with 3.898" bore you can get 400.9705 which rounded up is a 401 CID out of your little sbb 350!!(401 because it is what the Buick Nailhead engine size was/is) With the extra cubes it will be easier to make more HP(you won't have to spin it as fast), if you build this after Sean gets his build done and has his book printed, you may top his HP and make his book obsolete right after it comes out! LOL To make things easier and less expensive; http://fitechefi.com/products/30012/ With the above you can save $$ on not having to buy a bunch of separate controllers and not have to pay for dyno tuning because the system is self adjusting/self learning for the A/F ratios and is good to 1,200 HP. Is this for another build or to attach to your stroker build? Seeing how you don't have any good engine shops out your way, maybe you and your son could open one? Send him to engine machining/engine tuning school and start buying the machines to go into business with him?(if you think there is a need out your way for that kind of shop?) Didn't you say you worked in an engine machine shop years ago? Or was that someone else I'm thinking of? GL
There is a company that was selling a procharger kit for a Buick 350... I will try to see if i can find a link to it. A guy in Sweden bought the kit and it worked well. Its probably less $$$$ to do a turbo setup and there are a great number of advantages over the procharger: 1. No belts to change to adjust the boost level 2. No stress on the crank 3. No belt slip 4. No HP sucking drag from the charger A well sized turbo setup has way more potential than a procharger .
You forgot to mention that turbo boost is pressurized on both sides so it is easier on parts than a any kind of supercharger because it basically cushions the rotating assembly from the pressure it takes to spin the turbo when the spent gasses go out to while the pressurized air is going in. Pressurized on both sides instead of just going in.
Blower sounds awesome, pulls like you wouldn't believe, it just keeps pulling Way less involved to install,work with and on. Cons Belt slip is only an issue with high boost and a small pulley Stress on crank is minimal in apps with less than 15lbs That said I sold my blower but only so I could make some RIDICULOUS power with twin Borg's I loved my e85 Blow thru setup, carb ran like fuel injection and the power was absurd and violent. I'd recommend blow thru,...a nice blow thru from CSU,Horsepower Innovations,etc not a home brewed hot mess 650 at the tire is much more realistic goal for a SBB, on pump gas and meth and unless you driven that kind of power it's enough to pucker up anyone
Yeah Sean, That link to the company that sells the kit would be interesting to check out and maybe see the mounting bracket.
You can buy Procharger bracket blanks for like $75 then you just got to too cut it out drill it for the 3 bolts on the head, say a 1in thick mounting plate with counter bored 7/16 threaded holes , some standoffs , a Procharger tensioner , and SBC crank pulley with a machined adapter and it's pretty much whooped
I was just on the FI Tech web site. they have a naturally aspirated efi up to 1200hp and boosted up to 900hp Tim
Yes, I seen they have an 8 injector model good for 1200 hp...not sure if that's n/a but I'm sure it's adjustable.
I made my own mount for the GT55 turbo I'm using for my atmosphere turbo on my truck. It's made out of 3/8" plate. Turbos would be cooler for sure, as it would be nice to fill both sides of the engine compartment equally.
Imo there is no real no need for twins on a sbb a single t4 76 would be all you need , be much more simple to accommodate and make 650rwhp like falling out of a tree the On3 turbos are proven pieces and are dirt cheap, they have a 88mm out now as well Now if you want see what the 350 can really stand up too go with a BWS480 Or twin 366's would be a killer setup on a 350+cid
I think it was discontinued i couldn't find it... Like Ethan (Hugger) says it would not be hard to make a procharger bracket from a blank that he pictured. Although if you price out the procharger the turbo kit from burton looks more attractive... And he will sell it as just the manifolds...
Lightly Used P1's and D1 blowers turn up pretty regularly for around 1k to 2k Brackets and pullies $500 to 750 Design and layout would be on you Rough cut it with a plasma or sawzall If I was to do one from scratch this would be my approach 1. use a 1in plate that would bolt to the 3 3/8-16 holes in the head. This will do two things one it will provide a larger footprint and use 7/16 threaded holes, and two it will decrease the standoff height to which would increase stability greatly 2. The next plate is available from Procharger due to the holes getting boogered up etc $100 iirc 3.the front plate is where you incorporate the bracket blank shown above and the tensioner if you desire a serp belt or just a simple idler pulley with a slot if you go with a cog belt. A second row of 3/8-16 bolts pass thru the this plate into the second place with 3/4 to 1in spacers in-between. 3. The crank pulley no problem just use a SBC pulley $125 then you need a spacer machined to accept the Chevy 3 bolt pattern and the Buick 6bolt pattern spacer thickness will depend on the placement of the blower obviously. Keeping in mind the alignment of the water pump and alt, Procharger makes blower pullies with different offsets so you can move the belt path in and out a little. 4.water pump runs off the v groove on the back of the Procharger crank pulley or if that's not feasible then you go electric. 5.alternator depends on if the v groove belt is retained if for whatever reason it wouldn't jive with the water pump then obviously it won't with the alternator,...that's when you fab an alt bracket now obviously the above is broad outline and certainly doesn't involve keeping PS or AC I enjoy brainstorming stuff like this so hopefully it will help anyone interested in it to do the same
With a mill & good lathe, brackets, pulleys, and spacers/ standoff mounts would be easy to fab up. It's nice you don't have to scrap your headers with this pwr adder. If only I was still working........
Mart, I'll put you to work, if you want to do that kind of stuff I would be more than happy to work with you to get it done. We can go to Dave's and use his lathe and Bridgeport because he has heat in his shop and I don't and its starting to get cold out. Plus I don't have a lathe and he does, when do you want to take a ride out to Goodrich and start machining? We can make 2 sets because I think Andy wants to supercharge his stroker as well. Let me know.
