I'm finally getting around to pulling the 401 out of my '62. I was going to originally use a load leveler, but after realizing the one I bought was crap and I didn't really need it anyway, I went back and purchased a 15ft section of 3/8in chain rated at 2650lbs. My new plan of attack is to cut the 15ft section in half, and cross the pieces over the engine making an X. I was originally just going to hook the chain to the 4 corner head bolts, however 3 of the 4 are actually mounting points for the ground straps and negative battery cable, and therefore are only studs with a nut. I'm assuming these probably aren't the best/strongest points to tie into, since they aren't actually head bolts. Can anybody give me some advice or info? Pictures are always welcone :grin: . Thanks :beer !
Can't use a lifting plate - boom on my 1 ton engine hoist isn't long enough. If only it was that simple :laugh: . Also, what size bolts do I need to attach the motor to an engine stand? I could go and check, but it would be easier to just go pick them up tomorrow if somebody knew. Thanks again :beer !
I wouldn't use a plate like that on an aluminum intake manifold either. I found it most convenient to go around the exhaust manifolds with a strap anyway. That worked for me. Erik
What do you mean by a strap? I had considered that. If I just get some grade 8 bolts the same length and size as the original manfolds, and do the X like I planned, it should work out pretty good. Never occured to me. I didn't think the manifold holes would be deep and or strong enough.
actually , I like the plate best,,, are you pulling just the engine or the engine and trans together???? makes a difference where you attach the chain.... remove the dist, and intake/carb to reduce wt. and keep from damaging them.....then attach the chain as close to the middle of the engine as you can if you are pulling the engine only,,, if the engine/trans, attach the chain 3/4 of the way toward the back of the engine to balance it better.... use long 3/8 bolts and attach at the exhaust manifold upper bolt holes.... get the bolt threads in good and deep but do not tighten completely,,, use flat washers on the bolt heads... use as short of a chain as you can and manuver it around.....
You guys that used the intake method, did you use the carb mounting holes, or did you remove the intake and use the holes in the heads? Doc, I'm going to be pulling the motor and trans seperately. With my current setup and garage configuration, it will actually be easier and safer to take the two pieces out individually.
It is more work, but I pulled the dist, intake/carb, heads, exhaust manifolds first, then winched the short block out ..... easier... and I was out in a field with two posts sunk in the ground on each side and a cross piece with a come along.... that is what is known as ''the hard way''.....:laugh: :laugh:
In the back of the engine, I used the bolt holes in the back of the heads...same as the holes for the water manifold in the front. In the front, I put the chain under two of the water manifold bolts. In '66, Buick had a cast-in loop on the water manifold for hoisting the engine....so they felt it was strong enough. For engine stand, spare head bolts work....7/16"
Wow, lots of different methods on this one. Interesting. Obviously there is more than one acceptable way to skin this cat. I never liked to put any additional stress on a cast part lifting from the intake as tempting as it is. It is unlikely intakes are designed to hold the weight of the engine. I'm not saying its going to hurt anything if you use that method because I'm sure many have been pulled that way without any problem and it works fine. Just that its a personal choice of mine not to. Unless an engine has a specific lift hook I always use one of the 3/8" bolt holes in the ends of the head such as where the water manifold connects. Run the bolt through the chain link with 1 heavy duty or 2 light duty flat washers. I use one chain diagonally usually right front to left rear or vice versa and center the hoist hook over the carb. I like the added shear strength using a horizontal bolt provides vs a vertical one that puts all the stress on the threads. Probably a moot point since the engine doesn't weigh all that much considering the strength bolts have in either orientation.
i always run a diagonal chain from front of head to back of opposite head. Dont use the bolts closer to the edge of the head, the ear could break off. Worked well, for about 10 or so engine swaps ive done.
I used the intake bolts via some factory loops not sure what they are from and bend a little but worked with the cheesy leveler I has a small chain but it works lifted a whole 430 and th400 without issue in the past either way if you use any hole via head bolt, intake or carb hole make sure the bolt is fully engaged as these are very heavy engines oh if you do keep the leveler or get a better one one good sugestion is to remove the handle and weld a 3/4 nut to the shaft and you can use a impact to run it back and forth save your knuckles , a friend of mind gave me the idea after this project unless you like Popye arms LOL good luck with the project Jim
