Anyone install a electric pusher fan on a 64 Special with the stock 300 engine? Have a clutch with a 5 blade fan and still can’t keep temps down in the summer while idling in stop and go traffic traffic. As soon as I move a little the temps come down some. Added a third row to the stock radiator tanks long ago and getting plenty of flow. Have a 160 degree stat in it now. Thought adding an electric fan I could switch on or thermostat controlled would work for those times when I need it. Plenty of options out there. Assume someone has done this before, can’t seem to find any posts on it. Always a overheating problem with the 64’s and don’t want to be popping head gaskets or worse warp a head. Thanks!
My 65 Skylark with 300 engine came with 7-blade fan (has factory a/c), so 7-blade fan may help you. I put a new water pump, clutch, and aluminum radiator in it,so it runs right at or a little above 180 degF thermostat setting. I recently got the a/c system going again, so I added two electric pusher fans in case I needed to pull additional air across the condenser in stop-and-go traffic. So far, I haven't had to turn them on, but I haven't driven it much yet to really be sure.
How long ago did you add third row ? Radiator may be plugging up? What is your timing at? I would set it up a few degrees. I think stock is zero , with the vacuum advance giving you 8 at idle. You may want to test vacuum advance also. How old is fan clutch. Is it freewheeling at idle?
Use a puller fan if at all possible, even if it means doing a little extra work to accommodate. Pushers can suffer from pressure build up between the fan and the radiator, and pushers are an obstruction to the front of the radiator blocking airflow. Both conditions can result in inefficiency at low speeds/stop and go traffic, and also at moderate speeds and highway driving. This can actually make things worse on some cars. Puller fans if correctly installed and shrouded can pull a greater amount of air through the entire radiator surface, and allow for "exhausting" of airflow above speeds when the fans are not required. Using a pusher to "fix" the cooling problem is a band-aid. Hope that helps. I use dual SPAL fans on both my 64 Nailhead and 68 BBB Skylarks, and never have any issues with heat. Temps on both are about 180 and will get no more than 195 driving for several hours in worst conditions, and will actually drop temps setting at idle to 180. The 64 would get hot in stop and go, with a heavy duty 4 tube copper crossflow, proper shroud and correctly spaced mechanical fan, classic airflow issue and why I went with electrics.
Third row was added about 10 years ago but only have 10K miles on it. Fan clutch is new and free wheeling when cool and the water pump has been changed. Timing has not been checked in while, but was set at the stock settings, it was way too advanced. Motor runs well, starts easily, I have the Lectric Limited points conversion installed. Stock fan shroud. I want to keep a stock look as much as possible and thought pulling the electric fan off the car when not needed or when I have it judged. I do crusin the coast every year in Biloxi and with the long lines and traffic gridlock I get into every so often I was thinking a pusher fan that I could turn on when needed might be an option. Thanks for the comments though
It might be enough in such cases, and understand the desire as you stated. The cost is not that much if it does not work for you. I would give it a shot. Let me know when you head down in October, and maybe we can meet up and have a cold snack!
My 1968 350 also has a temp sensor that increases the idle speed to prevent overheating at idle in high temps.
Retarded timing will heat the motor up at idle. The initial timing on those motors is what?, 2 1/2* BTDC? You idle at that and you will run hot for sure. Vacuum advance should be connected to manifold vacuum so you get another 14-18* of spark advance at idle. When was the last time you checked that? That could be the problem. Adding a fan in front of the radiator will block air flow. Seems to me the thing to do is check the simple things first before spending money and adding complexity.
Thanks, good idea and I’ll check those things out. Right now all vacuum comes from the port at the base of the carb.
When you unhook that hose with the engine running at idle, you should hear a loud hiss. Reconnect the hose, and check your timing at idle, it should be at least 16*. If it isn't, the vacuum advance canister has bought the farm. Before you check the timing, always check and adjust your point dwell. It affects ignition timing.
Don’t have dwell, it’s a lectric limited points conversion set up. Don’t have a vacuum advance canister either. It’s a 64 300 cu in engine.
The original distributor had a vacuum advance canister. So my next question is, did someone remove the canister? If your initial timing is 2* BTDC, that's why it heats up at idle.
Well there’s the problem. No vacuum advance and timing at 2? Way too low. See what your timing is at 2800 rpm. You need more idle timing.
I used quantity two of Spal 11 inch fan (p/n 30101502). I had to trim the hood latch support a little for clearance, but they fit nice.
Attached are two pics. If you do not have a/c, then fans will set in farther, since you won't have condenser there.
Full manifold vacuum will definitely help. I installed an adjustable vacuum canister, but haven't dialed it in yet.
