On a vehicle with electric choke which way is the adjustment turned to lean out the carb on start up? To the firewall or to the nose of the vehicle. My choke is on the P/S of the carb.
Have you looked on the choke coil cover? Most of the time, they have the words rich and lean with arrows. If not, increasing spring tension richens the setting, decreasing the spring tension. leans it. You should be able to feel it as you turn the cover. Just keep track of your initial setting, so you can go back to it.
Turning the electric choke either direction does NOT lean the carburetor up on initial start-up, unless you to so far clockwise the choke isn't fully applied. The lean/rich setting on initial start-up is adjusted by the choke pull-off. Early models required bending the linkage (Olds and Pontiac), later models had a screw right on the pull-off to control the open angle of the choke flap when the engine first starts. If the choke is staying on too long, or coming back in too quickly, turn it clockwise. If the choke isn't fully closing the choke flap, or coming off too fast, turn the choke counter clockwise. They made at least a dozen different electric chokes with different opening rates. The one we sell on our website is apprs 3 minutes when set to the factory position......Cliff
Thanks Cliff, Was actually gonna put the choke back to its original setting as when I moved it I ran worse at start up. Just gotta address the soot issue! Last night when I had the car opened up she started bogging down at around 110 like she had a governor installed. Any ideas??
Troubles at full throttle once you are past transition is usually a few delivery issue. Basically, the fuel pump/system isn't keep up, the bowl gets low/empty, and the engine surges, or completely shuts off.....Cliff
You are absolutely correct as that is what it feels like! Just went for a run after I set the choke back to it's original setting which made start up fine. Car has some nasty torque at midrange but off the line and at top end she seems to be lacking for fuel. Even the tranny won't downshift right when you hit the peddle. Any suggestions?
TA sells a fuel pump that is rumored to be better than stock... Replace the fuel filter as that can cause a restriction. Be sure to replace the rubber hoses over the axle that connect the fuel lines to the tank, also replace the hoses at the fuel pump. One last thing is the fuel sock in the tank, they get clogged. After cleaning the tank and doing the above you should not have any issues. If you still need more fuel pump though look into an electric version.
From your description of this issue, you may be dealing with an air cleaner heat issue. This system, frequently disconnected, allows the engine to ingest warmer, less dense air under certain conditions. It allows the use of leaner fuel delivery to meet emissions standards. If this system is not heating the incoming air properly, the result could be a lean condition. Before troubleshooting such a situation, be sure that the required systems are installed and working correctly, especially when using an emissions carb. Also, be sure that the engine runs correctly when completely warmed up before attacking the choke and its controls. Winter conditions can make an engine perform really WELL, but only if the carb and its controls are working correctly. Your hesitations could be the choke opening too fast, or it could be an accelerator pump issue. The top end situation could be one of too large a secondary metering rod, or it could be one of fuel starvation, caused by either a dying or incorrectly sized fuel pump, or a partially plugged fuel filter. I have seen carbs with low fuel levels in the bowl cause BOTH issues. Properly defining the problem is the ONLY way to correct it. Suggestion: Evaluate the engine's performance when completely warmed up, and correct what you find. THEN address the cold running issues. You may find that the cold issues disappear when correcting the warm running ones. If nothing else, you will know what is not causing the cold running issues, making solving them easier. Let us know...
My Skylark would do the same thing, bog and surge after 90 or so on full throttle. I tried electric pumps, a new stock pump and both at the same time without much success. The qjet was new and correct for the 71 455 so, I eventually got a RobbMc Fuel pump and wow, did that ever wake it up. First time out, I punched it at 45, the tranny down shifted and the 4 bbl kicked in the same time and it broke the back tires loose. Was NOT expecting that and it kinda scared the crap out me. I can tell you that there was no more bogging or hesitation at all. One of the best upgrades I did.
I replaced the fuel pump with an OEM replacement a year ago before the rebuild. It will be the next thing to consider if nothing else is found to be the cause. Engine runs fine when warmed up here in Florida. The carb has always been topped off with a K&N open element filter, bogging only became an issue as of late
