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rear end brake lines

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by gscalifornia, Feb 23, 2021.

  1. gscalifornia

    gscalifornia Small blocks rule!!

    I need to replace the rubber hose and the brake lines that run left and right along the rear end out to the wheel cylinders on an 8.5 10 bolt. I see there are a bunch of choices for buying pre-bent lines. I don't have any flaring tools or benders, are they all pretty much the same?
     
    gscalifornia, Feb 23, 2021
    #1
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I can't imagine any appreciable difference for those lines. They run along the axle tubes to the wheel cylinders. Pretty simple. You'll probably need to tweak them a little. Shouldn't be a big deal. I would just make them if it was me.
     
    LARRY70GS, Feb 24, 2021
    #2
  3. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    Inline tube
     
    gstewart, Feb 24, 2021
    #3
    72gs4spd likes this.
  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    The biggest difference might be if you have a 10-bolt and don't get 12-bolt lines. The junction is not in the same place so the hard lines probably won't line up easily.
     
    knucklebusted, Mar 1, 2021
    #4
  5. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    Got mine from inline, fit perfectly.
     
    john.schaefer77, Mar 2, 2021
    #5
  6. 8587GN

    8587GN Well-Known Member

    Inline Tube, or Fine Lines
     
    8587GN, Mar 2, 2021
    #6
  7. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The real issue is going to be cracking the line open going into the flex hose. The tube is usually frozen to the nut. I'd be shocked if it came off. Even on my dry Wyoming car, the line was frozen
     
    CJay, Mar 2, 2021
    #7
  8. steve covington

    steve covington Founders Club Member

    Just a personal thing that I have noticed: Do NOT get Stainless steel lines. Get regular steel lines. I've heard too many horror stories about Stainless lines not sealing.
    Also, be sure to use compressed air to blow out the lines and some evaporating parts cleaner to remove any machining/ tooling residue.
    And put the plugs/ caps back on while routing the lines into position. No need to get dirt in those pretty new lines!
     
    steve covington, Mar 7, 2021
    #8
    Max Damage likes this.
  9. buicksWILD

    buicksWILD Well-Known Member

    Soak the connections in wd40 or something similar.
     
    buicksWILD, Mar 7, 2021
    #9
  10. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member


    If I'm replacing the line, I just grab a whizzer and cut the old line off right by the fitting. Now you can get a 6 point socket on the fitting for removal. After wire wheeling the fitting all up nice and clean I put it in a vice and drill out the old tube. Slide it on some new coil stock, flare the end and your good to go.


    Keith
     
    woody1640, Mar 7, 2021
    #10
  11. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Easier said than done.. Usually, but that line is in a bad place. You not getting a flaring tool up there. Plus the muffler is in the way. Then there's the issue of lifting the body off the frame in order to replace it
     
    CJay, Mar 7, 2021
    #11
  12. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    I never said I was LOL! Your assuming that.

    I do all my flares on the bench, with the flaring tool clamped in the vice. That's actually the way my flaring tool is designed to work.

    Keith
     
    woody1640, Mar 7, 2021
    #12
  13. gscalifornia

    gscalifornia Small blocks rule!!

    I ended up buying a set of steel lines from Summit as I needed a few other parts as well. RSD-ARA6804 Right Stuff Steel line kit for $25, fit really well other than the wheel cylinder ends were bent for the angled connection and I had straight in connections.

    Thankfully the brake line busted loose on the rubber line as well, that little clip on the rubber brake hose can be a bugger to remove/replace though!
     
    gscalifornia, Mar 9, 2021
    #13

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