I need to replace the rubber hose and the brake lines that run left and right along the rear end out to the wheel cylinders on an 8.5 10 bolt. I see there are a bunch of choices for buying pre-bent lines. I don't have any flaring tools or benders, are they all pretty much the same?
I can't imagine any appreciable difference for those lines. They run along the axle tubes to the wheel cylinders. Pretty simple. You'll probably need to tweak them a little. Shouldn't be a big deal. I would just make them if it was me.
The biggest difference might be if you have a 10-bolt and don't get 12-bolt lines. The junction is not in the same place so the hard lines probably won't line up easily.
The real issue is going to be cracking the line open going into the flex hose. The tube is usually frozen to the nut. I'd be shocked if it came off. Even on my dry Wyoming car, the line was frozen
Just a personal thing that I have noticed: Do NOT get Stainless steel lines. Get regular steel lines. I've heard too many horror stories about Stainless lines not sealing. Also, be sure to use compressed air to blow out the lines and some evaporating parts cleaner to remove any machining/ tooling residue. And put the plugs/ caps back on while routing the lines into position. No need to get dirt in those pretty new lines!
If I'm replacing the line, I just grab a whizzer and cut the old line off right by the fitting. Now you can get a 6 point socket on the fitting for removal. After wire wheeling the fitting all up nice and clean I put it in a vice and drill out the old tube. Slide it on some new coil stock, flare the end and your good to go. Keith
Easier said than done.. Usually, but that line is in a bad place. You not getting a flaring tool up there. Plus the muffler is in the way. Then there's the issue of lifting the body off the frame in order to replace it
I never said I was LOL! Your assuming that. I do all my flares on the bench, with the flaring tool clamped in the vice. That's actually the way my flaring tool is designed to work. Keith
I ended up buying a set of steel lines from Summit as I needed a few other parts as well. RSD-ARA6804 Right Stuff Steel line kit for $25, fit really well other than the wheel cylinder ends were bent for the angled connection and I had straight in connections. Thankfully the brake line busted loose on the rubber line as well, that little clip on the rubber brake hose can be a bugger to remove/replace though!