rear sholder belts

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by 1970stage1455, Mar 27, 2009.

  1. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    Re: rear shoulder belts

    Rick,

    Are you saying that the front shoulder belt will be a direct fit for the rear? If that is true, what plastic piece would you use for the cover of the mounting? The front belt didn't have a plastic cover for the shoulder mounting area did it? :Do No:
     
  2. V8Sky

    V8Sky "Scarlett"

    Re: rear shoulder belts

    >>The front shoulder belts have a plastic cover that mounts to the roof. I am going to mount the extra front shoulder belts in the back, make a metal plate and use screws, bolts, and washers to hold in the shoulder belts into the metal frame of the package tray. Then I will use the same front shoulder belt covers to mount onto the package tray to cover it up. Should look close to factory when it is all done.
     
  3. idahoskylark

    idahoskylark idahoskylark

    sounds like some good ideas can't wait to get my car back from paint so i can check this out on mine
     
  4. staged70

    staged70 RIP

    It looks to me like my 72 shoulder belts can be used here too. I have extras so I think the lower plate wil have to be very thickand bigger so as to spread the load in an acident. Looks like it will work fine. My 72 uses the small belt buckles too.
     
  5. blown66

    blown66 newbie

    yep
     
  6. ford2

    ford2 Well-Known Member

    Might be a good idea to remember that there were plastic buckle holders fitted to the seats to hold them when not in use.
    They were fitted on the front as well [bench] at least on the riv's.
     
  7. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Finally made a drawing & cardboard template for the mounting plate. Friend will fabricate a couple copies for me over the next few days.
    I started out in the trunk on my back, looking up with a pencil & paper.
    Might be some slight trim/file required.
    I'll post final dimensions & pics here once my prototype is complete.
    I'll have to sort out details on a spacer between the plate & the top side of the package shelf. Good 1/4", maybe 3/8" gap there. Without a spacer the soft package tray material will get pulled down when the bolts are tightened.
     
  8. V8Sky

    V8Sky "Scarlett"

    Nice work Steve, please keep us updated on your progress. I'll be attempting this project myself either in late summer or early fall - I now have the front shoulder belts ready to dye sandalwood and shoulder belt bolt covers to use for the rear package tray when I mount the belts.
     
  9. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Chris & all others,
    I need a few of you to do what I did!
    Looking for a measurement from the topside of the rear package tray stamping to the top side of the rear shelf package tray cardboard/masonite material.
    I have the brackets fabbed, drilled & tapped but need to know how high to make spacers. I'm guessing somewhere 1/4" - 3/8". These spacers will prevent the package tray cardboard from being drawn down as the bolts are tightened.

    Easy job, helper makes it easier.
    Somehow, get your self inside the trunk, laying on your back, with your head & shoulder under the package tray. Either side is fine, you can choose based on your health.
    Any voids there between the steel & the underside of the shelf material?
    Need to know how thick the shelf material is too.
    I may be able to remove the rear defogger to guage the shelf material.
    Mine has a repro shelf & under-padding, not sure if it will agree with other cars.

    Thanks.
     
  10. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    I don't have my package tray installe dyet so I can't give you anything accurate Steve.
     
  11. V8Sky

    V8Sky "Scarlett"

    >>Hi Steve,
    I have a repro shelf with under-padding as well - what I was going to do to measure the length for spacers was to put a long needle through the hole for the bolts in the underside of the package tray in the trunk, have my wife tell me from inside the car when the needle pokes through the top of the package tray, and measure the length on the needle - this way you wouldn't cause any damage to the package tray or have to remove it - haven't done this yet so it's not a sure thing to work but I think it might do the job.
     
  12. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Chris,
    Good idea.Who goes into the trunk......you or the Mrs.?
    "Really dear, I forgot to tell you the key doesn't work sometimes".
     
  13. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Ken,
    Are you able to get a measurement on the difference in elevation from the tray stamping general area to the top of the belt support area?
    I believe the jute padding doesn't cover the raised portions?
     
  14. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    Steve,

    I have no package tray or jute installed yet. All I can do is measure the depth of the recess itself (as long as I know which one it is, I guess it will look obvious?)
     
  15. V8Sky

    V8Sky "Scarlett"

    I have to go in the trunk, otherwise I would be going in the doghouse!:laugh:
     
  16. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Ken,
    The raised area on the steel stamping will do it.

    Chris,
    I have my own with a private entry. Been there many, many times. Just like being at home, at times.:rolleyes:

    Something is telling me I covered toe entire package tray area with the jute. This would make the cardboard cover sit a tad higher.
    Need to get a feel for what others have done.
     
  17. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Bit of progress this week. Pic of the set-up I've been able to assemble based on my interpretation of the Fisher Body Manual.
    Bracket is still a rough working model. I'll get it to work before I make it pretty.
    Still need to sort out a material for the locating collars/spacers that will be welded on top of the plate. These will play two roles. One, aid in locating the plate to align the bolts & holes against the rear package tray stamping. Two, prevent the soft package tray finish material from being crushed/drawn down once the bolts are tight. Need +/- 1/4" high with ID large enough to pass a 5/16" UNC bolt with a bit of wiggle room AND an OD that will fit inside the punched holes in the package tray stamping. Lost my initial measurements but think it was about 0.40".
    The factory belt had a female buckle end on it - I think. Drawings are really not concise. I'll be trying to mock this up in the car & judge how the existing male will work. It's a regular front seat shoulder belt & will mate to a regular lap belt. This set-up will be much easier to source as good used.

    Comments?
     
  18. V8Sky

    V8Sky "Scarlett"

    Hi Steve,
    Nice job on the plate! What length bolts are you using? I don't think that the stock bolts would be long enough for the rear seatbelt conversion.

    Wouldn't the existing male end just be mounted with the others under the bottom of the rear seat?

    On a related note, any good sources for the sandalwood color dye? I need to dye the shoulder belts I have to match my other belts exact.
     
  19. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    Hey Steve,

    Quick question. For a rear shoulder setup won't you need 2 females ultimately per outside passenger? 1 for lap and 1 for shoulder, no?
     
  20. WE1

    WE1 Well-Known Member

    Hey guys, just noticed this thread. I'm heading down to the shop in an hour or so. I'll get photos of my original rear shoulder belt set up. Its in my 70 GSX. I might be able to answer a few questions you have. I'll post up the photos today. I'm heading off to a ball game this afternoon, but will check back tomorrow.
     

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