This compression test is not very good for an engine that has 1500 miles on it already. That #2 cylinder should have had the worst reading on the leakdown test. Why is 1, 3, 5, 7 have lower numbers than the 2,4,6,8 side which does look better except for # 2 I would say that head is not sealing as good on the 1,3,5,7 side. #2 is really low, at that point since it is lower than the rest the compression tester needed to be taken out and clean the seal at the head and make another test in case the tester did not seal good the first time. Both sides of the engine should have the same numbers. #3 is 10 points from #4 on the other side, that is a lot.
Lmao what a joke! 4 pages of discussion on a motor that someone screwed up and no end in sight. Keith
OP is working with the machine shop to figure out an outcome. One step at a time. Everyone putting in their 2 cents is muddying the water.
I removed cylinder #1 springs. Intake seal has a small cut on top. Exhaust seal is all chewed up on the bottom. And part of the seal is laying next to the spring. I'm thinking I should definitely throw them away along with the spring dampeners. I attached a picture of seals that were included with my Felpro gasket kit. They seem to press on fairly easily. I thought they would be tighter and a need bit of effort to press them on. Valves slide in the guides very easily but not sloppy. I haven't looked at any other cylinders yet. Im thinking it might contribute to oil consumption. Any thoughts?
Looks like k liners were installed. Can you wiggle the stem any? Maybe put an indicator on stem side and see how the play is, or if any excess. They should be tight, like .0015 tight.
Yes k-line. I don't have a dial indicator but not a noticeable wiggle. But enough to see oil squish a bit around edge of guide when I do wiggle it. I would post a video but don't think I can here.
Your last picture is the seal Fel Pro includes in the gasket set. Those are the correct ones, Buick only used seals on the intake valve. Those other seals aren’t right.
you should see the crazy thit on mine I sent Mart a couple of pics. I would post pic but my phone is having trouble downloading to the old Mac I have 12 yrs old now need new one. But I got stupid monster springs and the seals are different and on both intake and exhaust all done by the race shop.
The felpro seals seem to press on pretty easily. Almost seem like they could lift off when the valve is moving up and down.
They should be a snug fit, not hammer and socket beat ‘em down type of fit, but not easy to pop off either
Thats what I was thinking. Seems like only a slight snug fit. .....Valve guides look unmodified other than the k-liners
Those are not positive retention type seals . While you have the heads off order from TA performance there ta_1433BV seals. These will need the valve guide tops to be cut for these .530" ID seals. It's the best investment you will make for good long term oil control. This should have been done in the first place if you you spent money on new valves in my opinion.
Heads are still on. I was thinking of trying it with new seals before I start tearing it all down again. Maybe I'm an optimist.
Here's a video link trunk monkey helped me with! https://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2022/10/19/20221019092918-6dd30709.mp4 If you zoom in you can kinda see how much play there is when I'm wiggling the valve. Thanks so much Mike
