Hello All, Long read. Sorry. And maybe redundant to the last post on this subject. I would like some advice on my ’64 300 build. I have spent a lot of time reviewing past posts (going back over 20 years!) but most of the parts sources have dried up. Even TA wasn’t enthusiastic about parts for it. I am building an engine to put in my wife’s ’64 Skylark convertible, 300, 4-speed, 3;08 gears. The existing engine is a ’64 but of unknown shape and internals. It actually runs great-I had added a 4bbl intake and Edelbrock 500 carb and it really woke it up. But I don’t know what’s inside, so I figured I’d rebuild another and then swap them out. The engine I took apart was clean but worn. It requires a 0.030” over bore. I’ve searched for semi-skirted pistons, but I have given up. I will probably purchase stock design high compression pistons from Egge unless any of you know another. The block has been decked about 0.004”. Cam and crank bores are very straight so no work needed. The crank polished up perfectly. I plan on having the engine balanced. The heads will have new guides and modern seals, lightly ported and a 3 angle valve job. I will use a TA front cover with the high volume oil pump. I have a set of rebuilt rocker assemblies and new stock pushrods. My questions: 1. Cam: I want a smooth idle but some power up to 5000 rpm. I’m leaning towards: a. Isky 625256: 0.450” lift, 256 dur., 112 deg center line. b. Isky 625262: 0.445” lift, 262 dur., 110 deg center line. c. Crower 50229: 0.450”/0.446” (I/E), 258/260 dur. ((I/E), 112 deg centerline. 2. I was planning on buying the cam with springs and lifters unless other sources are recommended. 3. Timing chain/gear source? 4. Accel makes a nice HEI unit. Any other suggestions? 5. Engine gasket set source? 6. A source for frame mounts so I can use later motor mounts (I can’t find ’64 mounts). 7. Anything I missed that you find important. That’s all for now. I’m sure I’ll have more questions to your answers. Many thanks, Joe
1c or next up 50230, 2 OK, 3 Ebay V6 oddfire 3 key timing set, 4 Ebay MSD clone distributor, 5 Ebay and Rockauto, 6 231, V6 mounts should be the same. Polish the crank where the crosshatch is for rope seal for modern seals. V6 front seal and Best Gasket rear seal. 82-87 Buick 3.0 V6 pistons are flat top and give higher compression but you need .050 overbore to 3.8. You would need 2 more. Cloyes Timing Set 9-1132; Street True Double Roller for Buick 198-225-231 V6 | eBay Renegade Distributor 98526-1; Hi-Energy Ready-to-Run Vacuum for Buick 215-350 V8 | eBay 1982 - 1987 Buicks Olds Pontiac Car 3.0L V6 12V-(6)Flat top Pistons & Cast Rings | eBay
My 65 Special 300/300 2 brl cruises 75/80 mph all day long and gets 19 mpg. What are you trying to accomplish? Is there a particular type of racing you are planning on? 5,000 rpm?
New motor mounts: 1967 BUICK SKYLARK Anchor Industries 2350 Anchor Industries Engine Mounts | Summit Racing
wouldnt a normal 350 hei fit a 300? If so you can find those new for very inexpensive and get parts anywhere.
Yep, You have to change out an intake bolt with pan head allen for clearance. You don't have the adjustability of the MSD clone though
Many thanks for the great suggestions. BTW, the car is not going to be raced-it's just that the few times I've installed torquer or economy cams, I've been underwhelmed. I don't think it will make that much difference between the two similar cams by Crower or Isky. I am going to go with the high volume pump. My crank did clean up with a polish but it's at the low end of the spec and "high mileage" bearings may not be available. I'll adjust the oil pressure to keep it reasonable. I will probably go with a real MSD ignition. It's not that I like to burn money but I have too many data points from friends using "Pacific Rim" distributors leaving them on the road dead from substandard electronics or bushings wearing out prematurely. This is my wife's summer driver. I've got to make it as reliable as possible. I have been using an Edelbrock 500CFM unit that works very well but I am tempted to use some sort of throttle body system.
I'd have to advise you to have the crank ground undersized to tight clearance with new bearing shells. Use the 5/8" pickup, enlarge the pickup galley in the block and tighten up the pump end clearance at the very least. The difference will be between a struggle to get 40 psi at cruise, and having that 40 psi at idle. About all that oversized pump will do for you is wear out your distributor gear. I run 5w 20 oil in my engines and have very good oil pressure. Jim
The .001 bearings rarely become available: Egge has them for the 300 and 340 and 350. Shop – Egge Machine
You said you want it reliable, nothing more reliable than a carburetor, the aftermarket TBI leave A LOT to be desired in the reliability dept.
These are not a direct replacement for the 1964 Buick A-body.The '64 has a narrow frame mount and one-year only mount. The mount recommended above has a wider stance, which is okay because it can be shimmed up. However, the hole is about 5/8" lower so this will raise your engine by that amout. So, yes, this mount will bolt on and work with some modifications but it is not a direct or easy replacement. I'm still looking for something closer OR a set of frame mounts from a '65 Buick A-body.
