How can I remove a cross threaded lug nut without breaking the stud? I'm thinking I could heat the lug with a small torch while applying firm pressure with a breaker bar. I don't want to break the stud as this is a 12 bolt rear with c-clips and I don't want to pull the axle if I can avoid it. Another thought is drill a hole in the end of the lug nut and squirt some p-blaster to lube it up. I have a thread restorer kit to salvage the stud if I can get the lug nut off. Any suggestions?
If possible try to split the lug nut.Drill two small holes one on top of the othe and try to spilt the nut with a chisel were you drill it. Or a cut off wheel or sawzall.And if my memory serves me good,you can change out the stud without pulling the axle.Unless its a extra long stud.
If you have cross threaded it, you probably damaged the threads on the stud beyond SAFE repair. Take off the drum, knock out the offending stud using a PIN PUNCH, instead of a CENTER PUNCH ( Center punch actually expands a small portion of the metal stud, but MAYBE not enough to cause interference.) It is relatively easy to press in a wheel stud using a moderate size C-clamp and short piece of pipe (called a close nipple). The Studs are generally downsized immediately after the knurled area where they come through the axle flange itself.
The offending lug nut is only on about half way so there should be plenty of original thread where the nut will seat when tight. I just need to restore the damaged threads so I can install a new nut. Once I get the old one off I'll have a better idea and if necessary I'll change the stud. I assumed the studs require a press but I'll give the c-clamp a try if I have to change out the stud. I assume the pipe is used to provide a solid base for the clamp while still allowing the stud to move?
Studs are cheap. Get the lug nut off any way you can (including the gas wrench) and replace the stud.
I agree.. We always just got the stud situated in the splines and drew it in by tightening a lug nut...
If it's only half way on you can probably get a cut off wheel behind it. Cut it off, pull the wheel and drum and bust the stud out. Go to the parts store, buy a new $2.00 stud and pull it in with a new lug nut and washers. If you can't get a cut off wheel behind it, try to get something that will fit between the wheel and bottom of the lug nut (an end wrench of a smaller size of the nut is my favorite) get your air gun and spin it off while applying pressure behind the nut. When you get it off DO NOT touch the nut, or the stud, or whatever you used to pry up with. They'll be very hot.
Patience was the key. Since the alloy wheel has a deep inset where the lug nuts are I was unable to get any kind of power tool in there to cut it off without risking damage to the wheel. I got it off by drilling through the tip of the lug nut and spraying PB Blaster in there. I applied steady pressure with a breaker bar and got it to spin. When it froze up I hit it again with some PB and continued until it came off. The tip of the stud was still inside the lug nut. I used the file from a thread restorer kit and smoothed out the end of the stud until I was able to get the die to grab. I slowly worked the die on until it caught the good threads and spun it on. Since the studs are extra long disc brake studs there is plenty of the original thread remaining for the lug to grab and seat.
