1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Removing gasket from timing cover

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Luxus, Dec 8, 2014.

  1. Luxus

    Luxus Gold Level Contributor

    I am actually looking for suggestions for good/easy ways to get old gasket material off the aluminum timing cover. Trying to scrape it off looks like it will take forever and may damage the cover.
     
  2. clutchracer

    clutchracer Well-Known Member

    Wire brush/wheel?
     
  3. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    razor scraper. slow and easy.
     
  4. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    Razor blade as much off first then Dremel with wire wheel and carb cleaner ..

    .. caution - wear eye protection as the bristles DO fly off
     
  5. Luxus

    Luxus Gold Level Contributor

    It's been decades since I've done this kind of thing, but you guys have refreshed my memory. The razor blade method was what I used to do back in the day. That being said, that was a PITA. I recall a mechanic friend of mine used to use scotchbrite roloc discs. Doing some research I see there is a version of the roloc where it has 'fingers' that looks interesting.

    Has anyone used the 'finger' version? Can someone recommend what grade of roloc to use? Finger version or not.
     
  6. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    ... nothing thats abrasive enough to "cut" aluminum
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  8. Luxus

    Luxus Gold Level Contributor

    With all the parts and brake cleaner I've been using, I think I have had my fill of stinky chemicals. :faint:

    But thanks, I'll keep that in mind as a last resort.
     
  9. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Submerge in kerosene
     
  10. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    Chip it off with a Fruitcake; 'tis the season.
     
  11. lemmy-67

    lemmy-67 Platinum Level Contributor

    3M roloc pads and a die grinder will take the residue off without solvents. Just use the light-duty abrasives on the aluminum...I think the green or brown pads should be fine.
     
  12. GS464

    GS464 Hopelessly Addicted

    Not sure what the specific brand name is but we use a right angle die grinder with rubber/nylon bristles on a round backing. I get mine from the Matco guy. Relatively inexpensive, last a long time and don't damage tender aluminum parts at all. Work fast too with little effort. Just chuck 'em up in the grinder and have at it. Love those things.
     
  13. Luxus

    Luxus Gold Level Contributor

    See this is what I'm talking about. Can you find out more info next time you go back to work? This would be something that would totally belong in this section. I believe I know what you are talking about but the ones I've seen were very pricey.
     
  14. GS464

    GS464 Hopelessly Addicted

    I just looked through the Matco, Mac and SnapOn online catalogs and didn't see what I was looking for. I even looked at Sears.com. :spank: I'll be in the shop Monday for sure but I'll try to stop by tomorrow.
     
  15. hdpegscraper

    hdpegscraper Well-Known Member

  16. GS464

    GS464 Hopelessly Addicted

    Those are exactly the ones we use. Thanks!

    :gp:
     
  17. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Ive been watching this thred "tongue in cheek" and want to add my 2 cents... If you have the means to use a wheeled abrasive method, dis-regard this. You wont hurt my feelings. Ive been around a lot of old stuff where the assembler always had a better idea on gasketing. It sounds like an old gasket that got cooked INTO the porosity of the aluminum, with something like permatex (yuck!!) being the bonding agent. This is what I would do:


    First off, get it clean because youre gonna wrestle the anaconda before youre done, unless you can devise a way to clamp it down. Rest it somewhere where you can manage it AND keep it somewhat stable/level. Put on the gloves. Warm the whole cover to about 200F. Id use a propane torch, but a heat gun will suffice. Aluminum will take a lot to heat and keep hot. Next is take a SHARP wood chisel, and make it almost hot to where it will turn dark blue. That's where the torch comes in. Keep the cover warm and the chisel HOT. Get in underneath the old gasket and find the sweet spot with the hot chisel and itll slice through the permatex (!!) like its hot butter.

    If you still aren't satisfied with the final finish take a few sheets of some #80 sand paper (!) and spray glue them edge to edge on to a piece of 3/4" plywood (or anything flat and level!) and run the part on that in a figure 8 pattern. Rotate the part in your hands to keep the rate even all around. You can also glue an emery strip onto the edge of a 2x4 and use it like a file. Juris Prudence is the rule here. Every few swipes wire brush the emery cloth or it will load up with mungoo.

    In my YOOT, I was a machinist in a power plant and was frequently required to cut an old gasket out of a steam sight glass (gage glass) housing on the Bridgeport mill. Those were typically, a paper gasket, followed by a MICA gasket, another paper job then the glass. The gage glass was two sided so the job was X2... Auto gaskets are childs play LOL ! Bill in TR
     

Share This Page