1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Removing heater core 61 Lesabre

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by cluxford, May 27, 2017.

  1. cluxford

    cluxford Well-Known Member

    OK, this one has me stumped. Everything unbolted under hood and under dash. Service manual says remove adaptor plate to floor vent. Then pull heater away from dash.

    OK so I cannot remove the adaptor.

    Can't lift heater up, adaptor will not budge in any direction.

    Is there a trick to doing this or is it siliconed to the floor and I just need to apply some elbow grease
     
  2. cluxford

    cluxford Well-Known Member

    OK for future reference. You have to pull the entire front carpet out, then unbolt the heater duct that is bolted to the floor that goes under the front seats to the rear seats. Once that is removed the adapter comes away now you can remove the heater box.
     
    cjp69 likes this.
  3. TexasJohn55

    TexasJohn55 Well-Known Member

  4. cjp69

    cjp69 Gold Level Contributor

    Sounds like a lot of work Chris. How long did it take you?
     
  5. cluxford

    cluxford Well-Known Member

    Chris, actually not too long if you go in eyes open. I had to sleep on it and have a second crack next day. But uninterrupted it would take roughly 2-3 hours. Got to pull the airbox stuff from the fireawall which is 5 bolts, 2 electrical wires and one control cable. All easily accessible. Then under the dash inside the car, one screw of the heater box, 2 control cables. All again easily accessible and easy to remove. But then pull the carpet. So kick panels, sill plates, remove front carpet. That probably was the longest bit to do. Then unbolt rear seat heat vent panel. This has roughly 10 bolts to unscrew from floor. You don't need to remove front seat. Once done, it comes out, adapter that connects that vent to heater comes out, then heater box just lifts out.

    To pull heater box apart it's unscrewing about 12 very small screws and done.

    So with prep and focus the whole thing can be apart in under 2 hours. Just annoying you need to pull the entire front of the car apart.

    Worse, you know it's my daily driver and it's coming into winter here. So I had to make a block off plate for the half a foot sized hole in the firewall now. It's not completely sealed, so I'm rugging up while driving now.

    My issue now is I have someone that can recore the heater but not the control valve locally here in Oz. I've found some on line but they want drug money for them, so looking if I could actually rebuild the existing control value. It's not pretty

    IMG_3139.JPG
     
  6. cjp69

    cjp69 Gold Level Contributor

    Thanks Chris, that is very helpful!
     

Share This Page