restoring 68 Skylark

Discussion in 'Junkyard Jewels' started by chuckles, Apr 24, 2009.

  1. chuckles

    chuckles New Member

    Working on a base model 1968 Buick Skylark 2 door hardtop with a 350/2bbl & powerglide. This car is medium Teal with a gloss Arctic White painted top. Interior perfect, no rust. Unfortunately, it ran into a deer at some point and front bumper is bent. I think it can be straightened. What needs replacing are: driver's side fender, headlight bucket and bezels, side marker light and grille. What I am not sure of is whether any of these parts have interchangeability with other years. The more I look at pictures, the less confident I am about it being possible. Any thoughts or leads on parts. Thanks in advance. Oh, by the way, this car is base model, like I said, including lack of power brakes. Anyone have an opinion on restoring with the factory equipped brakes versus upgrading to power front disc kit???:Comp:
     
  2. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Patience is a key word when restoring an old Buick. Some very good parts out there , available good used. The repro industry simply does not produce all we can ask for. Not nearly as popular as a Chevelle or Mustang as new, hence the lower demand now.
    I believe the '68 sheetmetal will be a one year only but the 68-69 guru's will clear the air on this.
    My '71 arrived with manual drums as yours, a real bear to stop. Upgrade kits are available aftermarket, a good used set can be had too. Get a brake man to do the brakes if you haven't ventured here before. Don't fool with it.
    Plenty of good advise here, just ask.
    Let us know who you are & where you are.
     
  3. GScloner

    GScloner Building a Skylark in IA

    I was where you are about 3 years ago. My 68 standard skylark had the lousy 4-wheel drums which I changed to 4-wheel discs. It's actually not such a tough job. (never done this before!) Lots of new parts and $$ but the results are well worth it. Imagine 50% more HP out of my 350 with those manual, drum brakes. Lots of go, not so much stop - bad news.
    Anyway, I've got all that old hardware, good rear drums, complete front spindles with drums, MC, etc. gathering dust in a box, for sale if anyone wants them.
     
  4. tinker14bs

    tinker14bs Well-Known Member

    The fenders should be interchangeable between 68 and 69. They will have different louvers on the sides between 68 (horizontal) and 69 (vertical). I have a 69 Skylark that has a 68 driver’s side fender on it. I am stripping the louvers off of the side and plugging the holes so it shouldn’t be a problem. I also had the 4 wheel drum manual brakes. It caused me to rear end a tow truck after two weeks of owning the car. I got a power booster installed for $100 total that was well worth it to me. The car stops decent now. Someday I will do a 4 wheel disc brake conversion, but I know what I have and don't tailgate and stop well in advance. If I have to stop hard, the front wheels lock up, so you just have to be a bit careful. As far as the grill and headlight bezels go, you can use headlight bexzelsbetween 68 and 69, but they won't be correct for the year. I think only a 68 grill will fit on a 68 though. Depending on condition of yours, you can do a little fiberglass repair and see how it looks until you find a replacement. Depends if you care about that or not. I personally do not. I am building the car for what I like.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2009
  5. chuckles

    chuckles New Member

    Thanks for the info, guys! This job could take longer than I thought. I live in Corpus Christi, Texas, Craig. I helped my buddy, Andre, find this car and now helping him get the parts he needs. If he gets too frustrated, though, the project will probably become mine. I will try and post a picture soon. You fellows will not believe the interior on this car. It is like "time capsule" stuff. In fact, all of the car is just too good to be believed, except that front corner body damage from run-in with a small deer!!! I did find a place in Phoenix that said they had a real good 68 fender. He quoted me $450 and $150 for crating and delivery. Does this sound like a reasonable price these days???:Do No:
     
  6. Godfatherina'64

    Godfatherina'64 Caleb Priest

    sounds like it...
     
  7. mrsportwagon

    mrsportwagon Well-Known Member

  8. David G

    David G de-modded....


    Depends on what he considers to be "good". I don't suppose he provided you with pictures? I'd think you might find a better deal from a V8 member if you posted in the parts wanted section.
     
  9. mrsportwagon

    mrsportwagon Well-Known Member

    I PMd him to let him know I have a fender in the P4S section for $50 that's in solid shape. Haven't heard back yet though. :Do No:

    As for the fender in Pheonix, I know us west coast guys are spoiled but seriously, unless God himself delivers it and places it on your car, $600 for a fender delivered a couple states away is too much IMO
     
  10. GScloner

    GScloner Building a Skylark in IA

    I paid about $350 for my 68 fender + shipping, shipped from San Jose to Iowa. I figure that's as good a deal as you'll get for a complete, straight, rustfree fender.
     
  11. John Eberly

    John Eberly Well-Known Member

    I might have some usable parts, headlight buckets and grille surround I think.

    PM if you want me to look.
     
  12. George D.

    George D. Platinum Level Contributor

    Even for us EAST coast guys, $450 is a rip off!!! I could see $450 for the pair, maybe $500 SHIPPED but $450 for one is highway robbery!
    My advice would be to look around TEXAS in the junkyards. I had a board member find me a L&R set of perfect fenders, dash bezel, trim, and a few other parts from a Texas junkyard. Total cost (with shipping) was $250. Start searching! :3gears:
     

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