I am planning on using the 1" taller ball joints along with generic solid/non-adjustable tubular upper and lower A-arms. I'm wondering how the 1" taller ball joints will affect the ride height? I haven't settled on springs or shocks yet. I keep reading about certain brands of coil springs sitting too low after install, or not being low enough. Any insight or actual installs? This is for my 68 Skylark, 350. I'm not sure if I will go with an aluminum intake (on shelf) or with a stock iron 4bbl intake (also on shelf). No A/C, but I plan on adding a generic aftermarket under-dash system. I might also use the air bags in the rear coils to help out when I carry passengers etc. Thanks
Just the Lowers effect ride height. 1in taller lower BJ = 1' drop upper tall bj give better camper lower tall bj improves bump-steer near 0
Thanks. I came across that info on another forum later. Some of the replies get really long winded. :Smarty: It seems that just the uppers were being recommended for most users. I'm not sure if or when I would need both. I probably should buy that book and spend some quality time reading.
That is what I plan on using on my wagon is taller upper ball joints. OT. Tim, I would look into vintage air for an A/C system. Why go with a genaric underdash when there are alot of other great options. Tim
I have a lot of other parts - boxed trailing arms w/stock rear bar and the stock triangulation braces along with 1 1/4" front bar. I plan on doing the faster ratio upgrade also. I've debated about going bigger on the front discs and adding rear discs. I also have a 8.5 3.08 limited slip rear to install. I want it to handle but still have a semi decent ride. As far as the A/C, I'm not looking for the direct fit since my car is a non A/C car and doesn't have any ducts in the dash. Now, whether I use Vintage air, Old Air etc, I'll still have to use the under-dash unit.
Ever think of using coil-overs? They by themselves will allow you to set your entire car to the desired ride height right where you like it...
Yes I have, but I haven't been able to convince myself that I really need them for what I'm building. :laugh:
I have SPC lightweight tubular upper arms with Howe precision tall ball joints. They are like jewelry. I took the splash shields off the inner fenders so I could see them better when I open the hood. Some type of aftermarket arm will be needed to run the tall upper ball joint. The Howe tall ball joints are around 3/4" taller than stock. My lower arms are SPC also, and have a deep pocket for the spring (I have tall ball joints there too). Odds are you will not get the desired ride height now matter how much research you do, and no matter what the spring supplier tells you. There are just to many variables, and the springs are too universal in their fit (I have bought 2" drop springs that ended up being higher than stock replacements). Plus, everyone has their own opinion of what height is "right". The SPC lower arm pocket allows you to insert/remove spacers to get the ride height to your satisfaction. You can get around an 1.5" of adjustment with the spacers. You just have to do trial and error to get there. It takes me about 3 tries to get mine right. I suggest not fully tightening the ball joint castle nuts and leaving out the cotter pins until you are happy. Another option is to is use stock type lower arms and to go through this exercise while cutting the springs with a cut off wheel. With this approach, if you go too far, you buy new springs and start over. Be aware that the "value" suppliers like CPP will have more variation in what they claim and what you will get in real life. you can call them and talk with different techs and get different answers each time on the same questions. Having said all of this, the above suggestion of adjustable coil overs should be starting to sound pretty appealing, eh? I bought my suspension from Savitske Classic & Custom. By the way, I had no degradation of ride quality with any of my suspension mods.
