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running a turbo on my nailhead

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by 66larkgs, Sep 13, 2009.

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  1. TAANK

    TAANK Well-Known Member

    seems fishy. that is to high of compression to boost. i call bs:mad:
     
    TAANK, Dec 29, 2009
    #21
  2. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Yea, 10.25:1 is a little high, but I wouldn't call BS. There's ways to work around that - low boost, high octane, big cam, water injection, etc.
     
    CameoInvicta, Dec 29, 2009
    #22
  3. TAANK

    TAANK Well-Known Member

    But why would you want to. i f you allready went to the trouble or replacing the pistons mnost people would have put in the correct pistons for boosted apps.
     
    TAANK, Dec 29, 2009
    #23
  4. Babeola

    Babeola Well-Known Member

    Depending on the cam and intercooler, high 9:1 or low 10:1 compression might be perfect for a boosted application. You want the dynamic compression ratio to complement drivability when it is not in boost.

    Cheryl :)
     
    Babeola, Dec 30, 2009
    #24
  5. 6671

    6671 Well-Known Member

    Yep. It's a compromise and boost is what makes the power. A lb. of boost is a .9% in power. Most turbo cars run an 8.5:1 dynamic compression ratio for drivability when not into boost. That amount of time will be little once you experience the power building with the rpm's and you and the seat become more and more as one! Do whatever you can to lower the compression as much as possible. If the motor is not assembled notch the pistons, forged pistons, cut the dome. Get the dynamic compression, which is the real compression, as closeto 8.5:1 as possible. An AFR of 12.5-13.0:1 will melt pistons the first time at WOT. Sorry, I missed the complete list and wether forged or not and if carbed or going Fuelinjected with a stand alone to control spark and fuel such as a F.A.S.T. controller. The ability to retard timing will be important also and MSD sells a unit at a decent cost that lowers timing at a set rpm so you are safer.
    The turbo being so far from the motor is the bad thing about these universalset-ups, not much heat there compared to heat right off the exhaust manifold. Heat is what drives the turbine and consequently the compressor wheel. Since you are buildiong a basic 5-6 psi set-up it should not be a big issue, but expect more turbo lag. 700HP will not happen without forged components and I doubt the Nail's rods can take that. A complete ***** to the wall build could yield 1000HP quite easily but not especially cheap.
    Someone starting from scratch could do it at a very reasonable cost since most of the traditional mods would not be needed.
    Sounds like great fun and am hoping for the best. Good luck!
     
    6671, Jan 1, 2010
    #25
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