A friend wants me to rebuild his buick 350. He said it sat outside for about 6 months. Water has leaked through the heads and now 7 of the 8 cyclinder wall have rust deposits on them. He got it for free, and I know that he is to cheap to go get a better block. I have gotten the crank out today, and am now worried that the walls will be damaged when passing the piston through. Is there any chemical that can disolve the rust deposits? Or what tool should I get to pollish the walls? Thanks
I'd just drive the pistons out!!:eek2: At this point...an overbore is certain to be needed.:Smarty: Hopefully, every cylinder will clean up at .030" over.:TU:
Well...it depends how bad the rust is and what kind of engine you're building. If its just a little surface rust, you may be able to get away with just honing the cylinder (with an engine hone). If this is just going to be a stock rebuild this should work just fine, but if you're looking at a more performance build...well these things need to be more precise. If it's to the point where the cylinder is pitted, then you'd probably have to bore the cylinder out. Of course, have you measured the wear in the cylinder? You may have to bore it out anyway.
I'm afraid that when I drive out the piston that it will cause to much damage. I know that most of the rust will just probably flake off, but do not want to buy the block off of him in case something does not go wrong. Yes it is going to be used for more proformance. I guess that he said the engine when it was complete that it had only 20.000 miles on it. I guess I should see if it was bored from the orginal rebuild. Not sure.
Make him sign a waiver:Brow: Al's Evapo-rust will do the trick....let it soak in the cylinders for a couple days....that'll take car of any rust.
you also should keep in mind that the cylinder wall shouldnt be smooth. Which is probably what you'd get if you just use some kind of chemical to get rid of the rust. Honing (or boring and honing) puts a nice cross-hatched pattern on the cylinder walls, which greatly helps the rings seat.
Zak Check the phone book for a local media blaster. With the different media available (everything from sand to baking powder), I suspect an expert can find something that will remove the rust with out damaging the bores. They use crushed walnut shells, crushed plastic buttons, and various grades of glass. Certianly they can find something to at least minimize the damage when the pistons are removed. Hope this helps . . . Craig
I say go ahead and pound em out! Unless, of course you are intending on re-using those pistons and not reboring and replacing.o No: I would definetely soak the hell out of the offending areas with Marvel Mystery oil, or tranny fluid, ect for at least overnite!! I really don't see how you are going to avoid an over-bore, hone and new pistons & rings with that amount of rust. HTTH's
thanks well, I'm going to beat the hell out of them to get them out tonight. Will let you guys know how bad I hurt the block...lol:Brow:
All Done!!! Thanks for the help. It is now just a block. I had only caused some pitting in cylinder 3. Not to bad. Going to the machine shop monday.:beer
Scotts Machine in Benson. I may call the guy that built my cousins race car. M&M Motersports in Tucson, he does amazing engine work.
Scotts Machine in Benson. I may call the guy that built my cousins race car. M&M Motersports in Tucson, he does amasing engine work.
Re: All Done!!! Since you took the crank out and left the pistons in, I'm assuming you did not mix up the rod caps to the rods, correct? Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES
The Rods and Pistons are now in my dumpster at work. I only needed the block. EVERYTHING is being replaced.
I sure hope those weren't a good set of late model cap screw rods! You might wanna go get those rods back!ou: Unless you know they are bent, they should be saved and reconditioned:blast:
