Any one up in the MN area have a source for blasting materials? I would like to soda bast or bead blast. I have a pressure blaster and a big compressor, just need the material. Thanks, Rich
Thanks! Here's a link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?from=categoryListing&action=Go!&search_type=Category&QueryString=Pneumatic+Blasting+Media&segment=Metalworking%2C+Welding+%26+Lubrication&family=Finishing+Supplies&subcat=Pneumatic+Blasting+Media&xi=xi Rich
Almost Everything. The car, which is a real basket case, needs complete resoration. I have used sand for many things, frame rust, it works well and is cheep. It is messy and dangerous, so outside a big tarp, a full suit, resp. The neigbors think I'm nuts :bglasses: I want to clean up some sheet metal, engine parts, so I need to use some softer materials. I was quoted $700.00 for soda blasting the body, I think I can do it much cheeper. It all part of the hobby. I would have been better off buying a car that's done, but what fun is that? It will be nice when finished. 69 GS 400 4 Speed :3gears: Any suggestions or helpful hints are always welcome :TU: Thanks, Rich
The reason I asked is for an outside blasting set up with a lot of volume- "bead" blasting (as in GLASSBEADS) would not be economical--glass beads are not cheap like sand. See the other thread on this or Chassis Resto section---don't blast body panels with sand/glass/or another aggressive type media or you risk warpage. Plastic is not cheap either---close to $2 a lb or more for it+shipping if you can't get it locally. Can't tell you about soda and/or whether or not your equipment will work with soda.
Thanks, Looks like a standard pressure blaster will do soda, unless anyone knows otherwise. I would like to do the body that way. As for sand, I'll use it where I can, frame and the like, it's about $6.00 a 100lbs. I want to use something in a cabinet that will do the work with out the dust. Thanks, Rich
Rich, Sterling Supply- 612-331-5125 They are our industrial supplier for all blasting materials. From Walnut shells to sand, glass bead, plastic media, red flint.. you name it, they have it. A whole bunch less expensive than Grainger I would suspect. For instance, I buy AC glass bead 200 lbs at a time (4 bags) it's about $25 a bag. Top quality stuff in the factory sealed bags. We use about 2000 lbs a year or so of it. Stay away from small containers, it will cost you a fortune. Think Skids of stuff like Sand, which is about $4-6 a 100lb bag, black diamond is similarly priced. Good luck JW
Thank you All! Great thing about this board, ask a question and get answers. Jim, I'll have to get over and meet you one of these days. I hope to get to the engine next year sometime. I'm thinking, by the looks of the car, it will need some major work. Nice to know your close. Rich
Rich Looks like Jim put you onto a good source for supplies. This site: http://www.consolidatedstripping.com/pages/1/index.htm is someplace you may wish to spend some time. The guy has been blasting for years and shares his knowledge on line. You say you are redoing an entire car; that will cause you you blast several different surfaces. This site is a gold mine of info Good Luck with your project. AND -- if you haven't already done so, get a GOOD respirator. Craig
Good Luck with your project. AND -- if you haven't already done so, get a GOOD respirator. Craig[/QUOTE] Great website, don't know what I did without the web. :TU: It's always a good reminder to use the proper respirator! I know there are a lot of younger people on this site (Long live the Buick Muscle Car!), who may not know about respirators, so I offer this advise: If you can smell the paint, your respirator is NOT working. The active charcoal canister last 30 days Maximum after exposure to air . I use 3M disposables, about $20.00 a pop, so I always have a few good dust masks around. I date them when I open them up and keep them sealed in the bag they come in when not in use. :TU: Thanks, Rich
3M would have a cow if they read that line about the "paint smell" test!(I'm sure they have heard it before) :Brow: I don't think they recommend those masks for paints containing isocyanates--urethane primers, POR, etc. Just so you are aware and even though you see people using them all the time when spraying those type paints.
I have a good supply shop that makes sure that I'm covered. I also have use of a fresh air system, I hate using it, always trip on the darn hose ou: I also set up a nice booth, plenty of filtered fresh air. I don't want to be breathing out of a straw 20 years form now. Thanks, Rich
