Hey guys. when I fill my tank of my 67 GS 400 too much my sending unit leaks. Les than 1/2 tank I am ok. I cannot seem to find a new one anywhere (all have 68 to 71's) but I do know that Year One will "refurbish" my old one for approx $ 150.00 but will take approx 3-5 weeks. Anybody have one out there? I would greatly appreciate it. Also, I had my tach rebuilt and it is now reading 1/2 the RPM's that it should, Example, the tach reads 450 RPM's in lieu of 900. Any ideas? Did they set my tach for 4cyl instead of 8cyl? Thanks, Alan Please email me at oalan@cox.net if you have any info.
I could be wrong, but I would check out the same year of Chevelle and see what it takes... maybe you don't actually need a sending unit, might just be a gasket although I have never actually removed one.
I Would Agree With Phil. There Is A Thick Oring Gasket That Seals The Sending Unit In The Fuel Tank That Often Dries Out And Cracks Which Would Allow Gas To Leak At The Excat Times You Describe. The Gasket Is Approx 1/4" Thick And Approx 3" In Diameter And Is Securied Under A Thin metal Retaining Ring. Drop The Tank And Check That First. Jay
I would think a 66-67 442 OLDs would have the closest tank. Check with Fusick. I have never owned a 67 Buick but I assume the filler neck is behind the license tag. I do have a 66 442. Cat 40C page 39 https://www.fusick.com/catfile/Catalog 40C_Layout 1.pdf
I bought a gas tank from these people. Thay were the only ones that had a tank with a filler neck and vent installed. Pretty fast service and good prices too. www.classiccarautoparts.com/gastanks.html They list a new sending unit for our cars as part# S-37CH238 for $79.00. Good Luck............Nick
thanks for your help. i wil ask my mechanic again tomorrow to see if it might be the oring or the actual unit. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Alan
Are you sure it's the sending unit? When full, mine used to leak from where the filler-neck entered the tank.
i spoke to my mechanic today, he stated that it was leaking from the sending unit, looks like somebody attempted to repair it and did a half ass job. I am in need of one now.
Hi Alan, I hope this does not come too late. I have a '66 Skylark that I needed to replace my fuel tank. I found a tank without neck and sending unit through a company named Quanta. They are located in Rising Sun, MD and the website is quantaproducts.com . I used a '67 sending unit in mine because it has a 3/8" tube where the original '66 only has a 5/16" tube. They price most sending units about $50. Hope this helps. Good luck, Joe D
For many years I've had a problem with gas leaking out of my sending unit, and it's always been baffling. The gas tank needs a vent for a few reasons: - As cold gas comes out of the ground and heats up, it expands and creates pressure - As gas is drawn from the tank, you need makeup air to enter the tank so it doesn't collapse Therefore you need to allow air in & out of the tank. The sending unit has a vent tube for these purposes. Like you, however, I have gasoline leak out sometimes just after I fill up. My sending unit is in good condition, so that isn't the problem. I've heard several other people with this problem over the years, but no solution. Does anyone have any ideas? -Bob Cunningham
i'd say get a fuel cell in the trunk get rid of that old tank and get a new tac cause they f'ed that one up.. lol
Hi Alan, I hope the information about the sending unit helped. I noticed another post from Chi-Town67 regarding a company called Cassic Car Auto Parts. I highly recommend Quanta over this other company. I checked out thier website and was excited to see a fuel tank with filler neck listed for 66-67 Skylark but soon discovered that the listing is incorrect. It seems that they resell items purchased from Quanta as the part numbers match but the incorrect listing is misleading. Always best to deal directly with the manufacturer or closet company to manufacturer. Now onto your tachometer. My best suggestion to you is to check back with the company that "rebuilt" it for you. I don't think that it is set for a four cylinder. I believe that if calibrated for a four cylinder it would read twice the actual RPM not half. If they can't fix the tachometer properly, try checking with local auto dealers to see who repairs gauge cluster and radios for them. A company that does that work should be able to repair your tachometer or recommend someone who can. Good luck, Joe D
All great info and not to hijack, but I have a question.I have a 67' Skylark that was 340-4 originally.It had the wrong tank and I put what was supposed to be used one from a 67' (I know dumb).If you run a vent tube do you then use a non-vented cap?And if you plug the vent do you then run a vented cap?In other words should it be vented only on one end?I had a carbon stlye filter on the vent tube end and a vented cap and it was fine for quite a while and then started leaking out of the filter.I plugged it off and left the vented cap thinking I only needed venting on one end ,but now I get the pressure build up.So the long winded question is this...did my car come with a vented tank originally and what can I do to solve my current issue until I can get a new correct set up?Again sorry to jump in ,but obviously I'm not alone. THANKS!
Hi David, I wish I could answer all your questions, but one of the greatest things I even learned and that I can pass on to others is "No one knows everything." Additionally, "The best way to get the correct answer to any specific question is to ask someone that specializes in that field." With that said, I know that the tank should be vented in some fashion but I am not sure if it matter which one or both areas should be vented. Please call the people at Quanta. They were very helpful to me in person at their shop and when I have talked to them at Carlisle. I realize through these posts that I have been touting Quanta and would like to assure you I do not work for them or get discounts for recommendations. HaHa. I have just had very good dealings with them and want to make sure I can return the favor. Lastly, I wanted to mention the filler necks. In my search, I could not find a direct replacement tank that came with a filler neck. I took my new and old tank to a local radiator repair shop that also specializes in fuel tank restoration. They wanted more money than I was willing to spend to flush out the old tank before using heat to remove the filler neck and of course would not cut the tank due to risk of sparks. I saved myself a great deal of money by cutting the tank open myself without a single spark. To get a starting point without drilling or a cut-off wheel, I took two pair of Vise-Grips and grabbed the lip/seam on the edge of the tank nearest the filler neck. Next, by working the seam up and down to the point the metal fatigued and cracked, I was able to create an opening. Repeat this far enough along the seam to allow room to insert tin snips, then cut out around the filler neck. With the small section of tank, filler neck still installed, and no risk of explosion, I went back to Loopers(the local radiator shop) and had the neck removed then soldered into the new tank. Pretty simple procedure, but a little time consuming. Any time I can save a buck without sacrificing quality, I am all about it. Hope this information has helped and that Quanta will be able to answer any others. Happy motoring, Joe D
