Had to get a Ford speedometer gear and adaptor to GM cable. Plugs are f0r reverse lockout solenoid & backup lights
Any idea if this bracket is available seperately? I used the American Powertrain chevelle hydraulic setup and had to fab my own bracket. It works, but the geometry is off resulting in an insanely stiff/short clutch pedal throw. I'd love to see more pictures of these components assembled to see if I could use this bracket with my existing hydraulic throwout setup!
Part of the reason for going to MDL was their knowledge with master cylinder to the Tilton bearing volume relationships with different clutch types and their travel limitations. Give MDL a call to find out if they'll sell you a separate mounting plate and talk to their engineer about your stiff pedal and short throw situation. The actual bracket Part# is MDL 950-1007 Phone 208 453-9800 I'll post some pics of my actual install, however it may not be until after Oct. The car is on the road with the TH400 for the next few months.
Attached are some mock up pics of the clutch master linkage to the pedal on the assembly I have on the bench. The clutch pedal travels 5" (at the pedal rubber ) before the clutch master bottoms out. Rod alignment seems pretty good straight, side to side and ever is so slightly arc'd up in the pedal up position, but as the pedal is pressed down, the motion of the heim joint arcs downward and aligns the rod straight into the clutch master.
THANK YOU for posting the mockup pictures! That's definitely a better setup than the american powertrain one. I may have to look into that.
Looks great, a well thought out system. The car is sweet. I would consider using a bronze pilot bushing. No disadvantages (other than initial sizing) and no moving parts to fail as in a roller bearing style.
Thanks to everyone for the compliments. Actually I am considering the bronze pilot bushing. As you may have noticed in the background of some of the above pics is a milling machine. I have a fairly complete tool & die machine shop along with lathes and even a cylindrical grinder in my basement of my house, so I am able to turn the OD of an oilite bronze pilot bushing to whatever the unfinished crank Id and step drilling is. Just some pics of what I play around with. Tom
Got my transmission slip yoke today complete with 1330 u joint. The yokes on my present 3.5"DOM driveshaft are also 1330, so all I need to do is shorten the existing shaft and rebalance. The 1330 yoke has the large 1350 u joint dimension, but with cup sizes of the ones on the 1310.
Tom, thanks again for putting me in touch with MDL. I've been chatting with them about a potential solution for my heavy clutch pedal.
The conversion has begun. I stripped the seats and console this week and replaced the auto brake pedal with the manual transmission pedals. At the same time I was able to install the clutch master bracket. A little trimming below the brake master at he firewall opening where the usual clutch rod protrudes was required. Nothing more than tin snips and small grinding stone couldn't handle.
If you have an auto transmission you'll need to make an opening in the steering column plate. I used the MDL supplied plate as a template to mark the location and holesawed a 1 1/2" hole for the clutch master to protrude through. The MDL plate and gasket will then cover the steering column plate with the master protruding through
Tremec T56 Magnums are sensitive to transmission input shaft alignment. A .005" lateral runout (or .010TIR) is tolerable by Tremec specs. Anything over this will require adjustment of the bellhousing with offset dowel pins for lateral movement. In my case I had a line hone done to the engine when we installed the halo girdle so I expect some crankshaft to transmission input lateral difference. As a preliminary I wanted to see how parallel the surfaces of the QuickTime bell were, so I checked them on a dead flat granite plate. Not too bad for a fabricated Bellhousing, but not perfect. More on this when I bolt on the bell flywheel and dial indicate it.
Update. The master, firewall cover plate, and reservoir are in and the auto transmission is now out. I've scribed the initial Tin Man transmission hump cut out to be made with the green masking tape.
So far out of my league I am totally humbled, but not enough that I don’t have incredible respect for your knowledge & abilities. Stellar build,and thank you for sharing the process & part resources. Fritz
Thanks Fritz and Louie. I ran into a bit of unexpected work today and had to modify the SFi bell housing block plate to accommodate a custom made rear oil balance line. The solution was to mill out a slot in the block plate to clear the AN fitting and part of the braided balance line at the rear of the engine .