Spark plug choice with stage 1 aluminum heads ?

What is a good plug to run on the street with the stage 1 aluminum heads? I am running accel 146 plugs and they are all carboned up, probably good for track use only. A friend of mine likes the autolite 26 plugs for the street so I picked some up, but they are not long reach like the accel plugs. Does autolite make long reach plugs. Seems like the aluminum heads have alot of thread in the spark plug hole and need the longer threaded plugs.Running 10.4 to 1 and 565 hp. Thanks:beer

 

Forgot to mention I am running a Mallory system, hy-fire ignition, pro comp coil and comp 9000 distributor. Lokking for suggestions on a good plug for the street. Thanks

 

Somebody must be running spark plugs in there buick:laugh: Looking for a good street plug and heat range for the street o No: Installing new plugs today and hoping for a little input. Thanks

 

Chris TA recommends NGK spark plugs from BP4ES or BPR4ES all the way to BP9ES OR BPR9ES,i am using BP7ES or BPR7ES it was one or the other,reason i am putting BPR or BP is because i dont remember which one it was,it was one or the other.

Thanks

 

R is for resistor type, so depending on your plug wires, whether you have a radio, etc, it might not matter if you get the R's.

HTH

 

Chris,

For compression ratio's up to 10.5, I would reccomend a BP4ES NGK plug.

For 10.5-11.5 I would reccomend a "5" or "6" depending on how it will be used. Dragstrip motors generally will get a little colder plug, due to the fact they don't have to navigate traffic too often..

We run "8's" in 14-1 motors.

Be wary of using Anti-seize on your plugs.. the NGK's are plated, so they resist corrosion.

Back when I was a tech for Honda, and put litterally thousands of plugs in aluminum heads, we all used to use anti-sieze, until we had a tech seminar with a rep from NGK, who showed us some very interesting results of heat dissipation testing, done with an aluminum head, and various spark plugs, with and without anti-sieze. One of the most important things that the plug base must do is transfer the heat from the plug to the head, thru the seat and the threads. I forget the exact numbers, but anti-sieze retarded that all important heat dissipation factor by at least half, and could actually help promote the plug "seizing" in the head... exactly what your trying to prevent with the anti-sieze in the first place..

Plated plugs, with the correct torque value, and changing them on regular intervals is the way to go here.

JW

 

is the 7 i`m running not too good for street Jim?

Thanks

 

ou: now we know where the Buick racing secrets come from! Jim, do you have any trail 90's in your past too?

Seriously, it's no wonder the B8EV's look a little dark in my stage 2. The V is probably the only reason they aren't fouling.

 

Looks like I will removing the plugs I put in today, with a small amount of anti seize ou: I had accel 146 in for the track, but they were all carboned up from street cruising. The parts store sold me some DENSO plugs equal to autolite 26. I am running long reach plugs. Are the NGK BP plugs long reach also? I dont have an iron head handy to compare but the stage one aluminums seem to have alot of thread at the plug hole. I will need two sets of plugs street/strip. Dont want to risk any detonation with a plug that is too hot and causes a lean condition. The colder plugs for the track dont last long on the street. Trying to find a mid-range I guesso No: Thanks

 

Guys..

I would prolly run a 4 or 5 in your motors.. street and track.. depending on compression ratio, and cam..

The "E" stands for extended reach, if I recall correctly..

Adam..

Yup, learned alot about aluminum heads in that job.. not to mention made a lot of money..

Unlike my current job.. ou:

JW