SOLD - Thanks Brandon! These are a pair of used SPC tubular upper control arms with the Pro-Lite arms and greasable bushings. I had them on my car for about 6 years but that is still probably less than 5,000 miles. New from SC&C they are $319 and the Pro-Lite arms are an extra $40. I'll take $275 shipped in the continental US. If that is too high, make offers! I also have an SPC toolbox sticker I found to go with them. The ball joint spacers are an extra $20 if needed. Brand new (probably Chinese) stock upper ball joints that came with my new arms, $40. Tall Howe upper ball joints, new from SC&C $85 each plus shipping, $100 plus shipping Package deal, $350 for the SPC upper control arms, Howe tall upper ball joints, ball joint spacers and the SPC sticker plus shipping. I'll split the paypal fees with you if you go that route.
You will need to clearance the upper control arm mount in the front or the arms will hit it at full droop. I'll throw in the bolts I used to bolt them on since you no longer need shims with these. They give great header clearance! I'd keep them if they had a way to get a bump stop to work. You can also use tall ball joints for improved handling. I have those as well but am going to try to use them on my new arms. The picture shows mine clearanced and a picture of the same area with a stock arm.
I bought a full matched set of uppers and lowers on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-6...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
those look like copies of the global west arms,you cannot use tall ball joints with those arms. Thanks
Why not? If I can get them to fit, they will go on. They only add about 3/4 of an inch at the most. If there's a good reason, tell me now because I'm about to get them machined to fit.
If you notice they upper a-arms are curved down at the ends,the ones you are selling are straight without a curve,the straight ones are the ones for a tall ball joint,the curved a-arms use stock size ball joints,if you use these a-arms with tall ball joints you will not be able to get the correct camber caster and maybe even alignment issues. Thanks
Part of the problem was that I hadn't lowered my car. With a lowered car, the SPC arms work but on mine they were always angled down a bit which pointed the ball joints inward. I'm going to chance it. Worst I can do is f-it up and have to buy two more! Regardless, I'll sell whatever I have with the SPC arms as a package. If I can't use the tall ball joints, they'll be sold separately.
whyt not just get the spc set of 4 springs through scandc for 289? problem solved :-D ps they have bumpstocks...just for the bottom spc arms though
With my M/T repro headers, I need LOTS of ground clearance. I'll mock it up before I put the springs back in but I'm betting it will work. Need factory ride height or higher for the moment.
they sell a height tunning kit i got mine through summit i'll be having the same issue with myy poston headers the tunning kit can lower to 2 inches or raise 2inches
I'm hoping new springs alone will boost the front end since it has headers, aluminum intake and a 200-4R instead of a 400 trany to lighten it. About the tall ball joints and the new a arms with the improved positive caster, I figure the tall ball joints will bleed a little of the caster since they effectively lengthen the spindle (long side of the triangle) and make the caster angle over a longer distance. Either way, stock or tall, I'm going to try for +5 caster -1 camber and 1/16" total toe in. I like corners. Did we get off track? Anyone interested in these control arms?
theres no difference options are reg spc are...or optional 40 for prolite version.. and ofcourse bushing type..greaseable poly bushing or high durameter rubber
As Nothingface5384 said, the uppers are the same and I have the pro lite aluminum red anodized adjuster sleeves and the greasable bushings.
