strip caulk installation tool question?

Does anyone have the proper method of installing the norton caulk strips, i know there is a tool for this, but i dont know where to find it, i have tried applying a strip on my 72 skylark but the only method i have is to press fit it with something small enough to fit the chanel space, but it does not look very well at all, so next guess is to buy the tool for this, anyone have a link to where i can find this at.

 

Well, when the body work was started on my car (finally for the 2nd time) the rain gutters had a hard caulk sealer in between the 2 joints and was removed because it was cracked, then i purchased the norton body shop strip caulk that comes in strips, it says there it is a non hardening caulk that can be applied by hand and finished with the tool was this the right sealer for that

 

oh, i see:spank: ou: ...I guess i hesitated and not did my research, id figured since i bought the other body work stuff online and it was only a couple of bucks, id get it, know i know not to apply it, what is this stuff ussually used for... like i said this is norton brand, and it comes in strips and it is soft and does not harden.

 

Use the Maxim self leveling seam sealer if you can find it.It`s a lot easier to use than the 3m drip chek.

 

I believe there are at least three types of seam sealer used on these cars> The black on the firewall another type in the trunk and the harder stuff along the roof gutters.

 

Worse yet---if you use the strip or "rope" chaulk it's likely the paint won't stick to it for very long.

3M Drip Chek is something for use on windshields that have already been chaulked in..it flows like a liquid into any "leaky" areas.....definitely not for the drip rails that need something with some body to fill the gap up and form a nice smooth area across the seam.

Go with a chaulk that doesn't flow much, if at all, if this is somethiing that is getting paint on top of it.

Not familiar with the Maxim stuff.....anyone have a link to it?

 

Evercoat Maxim self leveling.This is what I would use.It`s the best thing going.2 part and fits in a regular caulk gun.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=E824&Category_Code=JASS

 

Here`s the heavy drip check I used.I didn`t like it at all for the drip rails.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...E3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=GSYRGCLLKCbe6DTWTJQPBBgl

 

some windshields use a nylon/rubber strip her is a link for the tool http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=929

drip check sealer 3m 08531 is used for the drip rails above the door if you are going for the factory look...Norton also makes a self-leveling seam sealer also might want to look at 3m 08656 comes in a qt can and is applied with an acid brush...usually used on floor pans///trunks...fire wall etc...has consitancy of body filler....if you want the factory look

 

Thanks for the links....The Maxim looks good. A user would likely need a special "gun" to apply the stuff but I bet you can find the correct gun online at a good price also.

I like the fact that the Maxim product is a two part product...catalyzed.

For any users of the Maxim stuff...this stuff likely also uses special disposable nozzles. The nozzles have passages that mix the two parts as they move down the nozzle. Thus, whatever is left in the nozzle has been catalyzed and will harden up. So...you put a new nozzle on each time you use the product. How long the stuff can set in the nozzle in the "mixed state" I don't know, but if you are doing one part one day and another part on another day you'll need extra nozzles. Don't waste your time trying to clean out the nozzle and reuse it.

 

You can use a regular caulk gun as I stated with the Maxim.You do need the extra nozzles though.The extra mixing nozzles are 1.80 each but each tube comes with two nozzles already.