Stuck on descion making on suspension

Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by Stg1Regal, May 15, 2021.

  1. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    With knowing I'm not going all out to asphalt assault vehicle..

    But want it done right and one time.

    1971 Skylark 455.

    I'm leaning towards Ridetechs Delrin bushings up front on stock arms , but did like PSTs polygraphites I put on my 85 Lesabre.

    Combined with a WS6 front sawaybar, and close ratio steerimg box.

    Also Proforged vs Moog for chassis steering parts .

    Thoughts?

    Out back kinda ..stuck....

    Factorys arms boxed with PSTs?

    Or aftermarket tubular/ boxed with ...just plain polys?

    Heard one can leave diff ears rubber , and go poly and and still get "articulation".. and less bind in the rear..

    That's with Bilsteins shocks in all 4 corners , factory springs , and factory rear sway bar.

    Also the factory F 41 bars or the 4 speed bsrs...

    Thanks
     
  2. 12lives

    12lives Gravity is matter warping space-time - Einstein

    My 2 cents - Moog rubber all around, fat sway bar up front, slightly smaller in the rear with factory boxed arms. Moog steering and ball joints. Good shocks (Bilsteins or KYB) all around. Dial in better alignment specs. Use good tires. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the change with the new parts and upgraded sway bars. Add a fast steering box (unless you already have one) and you'll be good for everything except road racing or gymkhana!
     
    Sebambam and Max Damage like this.
  3. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly escaped mental patient

    i would run tublar bottoms with poly and uppers with rod ends on them so it dont bind on you.
     
  4. joejbal

    joejbal Well-Known Member

    1. Definitely run an aftermarket upper and taller ball joint. 2. Adjustable shocks.
     
    Darron72Skylark and 12lives like this.
  5. Postsedan

    Postsedan 13427 L78

    With Moog.....the inner Tie Rod, the Zerk fitting is in the wrong location.
     
  6. TimR

    TimR Nutcase at large

    +1. Upper UMI arms (only) with .90" taller ball joint really changed handling on my car, also made dialing in alignment specs I wanted much easier.
     
    Darron72Skylark likes this.
  7. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't be afraid of the poly/delrin bushings in the suspension components. I'm running poly/delrin everywhere except my body mounts (new rubber) and don't find the ride too harsh. I'd make sure that whatever option you took required low maintenance (re-greasing). Some of the delrins are self lubricating if memory serves.

    I'm a fan of moog for suspension components where you can use them - it's a known quantity at this point. However, a taller ball joint as others have mentioned can be a game changer for handling. I'm not sure if you can go that route without changing the arm itself.

    UMI makes a roto-joint (rod end) bushing that fits in the upper ear of the rear axle if you're looking for articulation at that location without the compromise of rubber.

    Anything more solid on the rear control arms should be an improvement over the stock hollow links. You can get aftermarket versions of the F41's that provide adjustability that may make the install a little smoother.
     
    Darron72Skylark likes this.
  8. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly escaped mental patient

    i have the ebay knock off stuff but its really nothing to complain about
     
    Stg1Regal and Sebambam like this.
  9. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Cheap or inexpensive?
    What brands?
     
  10. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly escaped mental patient

    its inexpensive copies of the name brand stuff but it isnt cheap made if that makes sense. idr the brand.
     

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