Stuck on descion making on suspension

With knowing I'm not going all out to asphalt assault vehicle..

But want it done right and one time.

1971 Skylark 455.

I'm leaning towards Ridetechs Delrin bushings up front on stock arms , but did like PSTs polygraphites I put on my 85 Lesabre.

Combined with a WS6 front sawaybar, and close ratio steerimg box.

Also Proforged vs Moog for chassis steering parts .

Thoughts?

Out back kinda ..stuck....

Factorys arms boxed with PSTs?

Or aftermarket tubular/ boxed with ...just plain polys?

Heard one can leave diff ears rubber , and go poly and and still get "articulation".. and less bind in the rear..

That's with Bilsteins shocks in all 4 corners , factory springs , and factory rear sway bar.

Also the factory F 41 bars or the 4 speed bsrs...

Thanks

 

My 2 cents - Moog rubber all around, fat sway bar up front, slightly smaller in the rear with factory boxed arms. Moog steering and ball joints. Good shocks (Bilsteins or KYB) all around. Dial in better alignment specs. Use good tires. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the change with the new parts and upgraded sway bars. Add a fast steering box (unless you already have one) and you'll be good for everything except road racing or gymkhana!

 

i would run tublar bottoms with poly and uppers with rod ends on them so it dont bind on you.

 

1. Definitely run an aftermarket upper and taller ball joint. 2. Adjustable shocks.

 

With Moog.....the inner Tie Rod, the Zerk fitting is in the wrong location.

 

+1. Upper UMI arms (only) with .90" taller ball joint really changed handling on my car, also made dialing in alignment specs I wanted much easier.

 

I wouldn't be afraid of the poly/delrin bushings in the suspension components. I'm running poly/delrin everywhere except my body mounts (new rubber) and don't find the ride too harsh. I'd make sure that whatever option you took required low maintenance (re-greasing). Some of the delrins are self lubricating if memory serves.

I'm a fan of moog for suspension components where you can use them - it's a known quantity at this point. However, a taller ball joint as others have mentioned can be a game changer for handling. I'm not sure if you can go that route without changing the arm itself.

UMI makes a roto-joint (rod end) bushing that fits in the upper ear of the rear axle if you're looking for articulation at that location without the compromise of rubber.

Anything more solid on the rear control arms should be an improvement over the stock hollow links. You can get aftermarket versions of the F41's that provide adjustability that may make the install a little smoother.

 

i have the ebay knock off stuff but its really nothing to complain about

 

Cheap or inexpensive?
What brands?

 

its inexpensive copies of the name brand stuff but it isnt cheap made if that makes sense. idr the brand.

 

I am running the SPC upper and lower arms, with pro-forged tall ball joints on the wagon. Just need to get better shocks for it. Found out the hard way that they needed to be 1" longs shocks. Right now I have basic monroe's on it. May look into ordering a set of KYB gas-a-just for it.

Now for the rear, as SPC doesn't have rear applications.

Tim

 

Tim - Do you need longer shocks due to the tall ball joint?

 

I think it is because of the LCA.

Tim